PASSING NOTES. By Our Travelling Representative.
Courtesy of Trove Sydney Mail 12 March 1898
“A splendid country with a great future” is the opinion I have formed after a tour of the Richmond and Tweed districts, but it will require time to develop the dairying industry now unfolding itself over the rich pastoral soil that abounds everywhere, though, perhaps, the choicest spots for stock, and which must become the centre of the dairying country, are wound about Alstonville, Newrybar, Rouse, Comlong, and Bangalow. That splendid scope of country is undoubtedly the pick of the basket. From Lismore to Ballina a distance of 20 odd miles, constitutes an enjoyable ride over a well-metalled road, and on the way some cosy and attractive settlers’ homes and dairy farms will be noticed. Amongst others worthy of attention are those of Mr. H.M. Williams, Mr. Dixon Cooke, Mr. Seecombe, and the Experimental Farm, at Wollongbar: Mr. T. Devery, Mr. James Daly, Mr. Owen Daly, Mr. W.A. Johnston, and Mr. A. Cook, at Alstonville. The latter is a small village at present, but gives promise of becoming a town of more importance later on. At present it comprises a couple of stores, the same number of hotels, a steam sawmill, a school which enjoys an average daily attendance of over 100 children, and a local attraction known as the Marshall Falls (75ft.). The latter is not quite so interesting as Niagara, but it is claimed to be quite equal to the attractions of Leura or Wentworth falls. The hotel accommodation is good, and patrons of the Pioneer, kept by an old and respected resident, Mr. Bewers, and the Ocean View, by Mr. J. Daly, will have no reason to regret their call. Both houses are admirably situated, Mr. Bewers’s commanding a picturesque view of the surrounding country, and Mr. Daly’s affording from the balcony a charming picture of the valley leading to Ballina, with its dense bush scenery and the ocean in the distance.
LISMORE EXPERIMENTAL FARM. This farm was established under the auspices of the New South Wales Agricultural Department, and is situated about eight miles from Lismore, on the Ballina road, and is known by the official name given to the post office as Wollangbar. It is placed in the centre of some of the richest grazing soil in the district. The farm comprises 400 acres of good arable land, 30 of which are laid down in six varieties of grasses, including a remarkable crop of cocksfoot and of the Pas palm dilataterim, the latter being over 5ft. high. In the experimental portion of the grounds may be seen a splendid lot of Guinea grass over 6ft. high. Another 30 acres of land is laid out in acre blocks under buckwheat, maize, sorghum, Planters’ Friend, and various millets, most of which is intended for use as ensilage to form an object lesson to the farmers. The timber for erection of the silos is already on the ground. Here also are to be seen several varieties of the banana, rows of healthy-looking pineapple, and excellent crops of lemons and oranges. Citrous fruits grow exceedingly well, but the trees require a large amount of attention in consequence of attacks by borers and other objectionable insect pests. Grapes, likewise, do well, but require careful scrutiny for same reason. With the exception of the banana, the district throughout, from the nature of its climate and soil, does not favour fruit-growing, and this fact probably accounts for the absence of orchards or any attempt on the part of the settlers to grow fruit for the local markets. The insects are too numerous and destructive. The cultivation of the Ramie plant is a leading feature of the farm, and bids fair to give gratifying results. This plant, which grows in great abundance, produces after scraping a fibre very closely resembling the New Zealand flax, and is very strong. It is considered a valuable product in commerce, as the material manufactured from the fibre can be utilised for many purposes, including cloth, rope, twine, &c. The Agricultural Department has recently sent up a Ramie decorticating machine imported specially from France, and all that is now needed is the necessary driving power, which the manager hopes will have arrived by the time the crop is ready to cut. During the recent Alstonville show the farm produced nearly 130 exhibits, which created considerable interest amongst the farmers present. These included some healthy specimens of young coffee and tea bushes, the former showing a thick crop of berries, some liquorice root, 17 varieties of maize, 14 of potatoes, six of lemons, 15 of peas and beans, several classes of sugar-cane and preserves in bottles, and excellent samples of pickling onions and other vegetables of an experimental character. The farm generally is exceedingly interesting from a visitor’s standpoint, and is held in great favour by the settlers. Its management reflects much credit on the present superintendent. Mr. H.V. Jackson, and his predecessor. Mr. Jackson was formerly in charge of the State nursery at Gosford. It is surprising what results are possible with a limited staff. There are only four labourers employed, and to look at the well-tilled land and many varieties of fruit trees, plants, grasses, &c., growing in profusion and free of weeds, it occurred to me that the department was asking too much of the staff to produce such results; and an enthusiast as Mr. Jackson is in his work, it looks very like imposing upon good nature. That the farm is a popular institution may be inferred from the fact that the average number of visitors is from 130 to 140 per month. To a towns-man this may appear small, but in a district with the settlers scattered over a wide extent of country the result is satisfactory, as the majority of callers is of the class seeking information and for whose benefit the Agricultural Department established the farm.
LISMORE COLLEGE (Mrs. H.M. Elvery, principal). This excellent educational establishment, which is the only one of its kind in the district, has been conducted with highly satisfactory results by Mrs. Elvery since August, 1894. Up to the present year 112 pupils have received tuition. In regard to the annual exams, in music, held under the auspices of Trinity College, London, and the Sydney College of Music, Mrs. Elvery claims to have passed 14 of her candidates, and four others took honors, all of whom were prepared by her. The house stands in about half an acre of ground at a convenient distance from the main street of Lismore, and has a tennis court and ample playground. It is out of reach of the highest flood, and on the hottest day the schoolroom is very cool, having so much ventilation — four windows and a door opening on to the balcony. The staff consists of four teachers, one a resident governess. The college is visited on the first of each month by parents and those interested in the school. All school work is then shown to the visitors, and the little children sing the kindergarten songs and give other interesting performances whilst the work of the elder pupils is suspended. This inspection is made at the request of the principal, as the pupils are denied the benefit of Government inspection, and it is found that both children and teachers benefit by the interest taken. Mrs. Elvery, the principal, has had considerable experience in all branches of education, and was formerly on the teaching staff of Cornelia College, Melbourne. Her credentials are exceptionally good and commend themselves to parents and guardians of children in the Richmond and Tweed districts, where she is well and favourably known. The school has accomplished much good work in painting and drawing, and it is anticipated the Sydney Technical College will shortly establish Lismore as a centre for exams in these branches. Mrs. Elvery is the local honorary secretary for the Sydney College of Music. It may be added in conclusion that at a show held by the R.R.A.& I. Society Lismore College won a certificate for “school obtaining most number of prizes in 1895.”
Approaching Ballina the traveller’s attention is drawn to the well-grassed paddocks, dairy farm, buildings, and slaughter-yards of Mr. W. Webster, and further on to the sugar mill, homestead, and cane crops of Mr. Martin, one of the oldest inhabitants. This little township of Ballina was looking downcast and dull at the time of my visit, owing probably to two causes. The first was the close of the cane season, and the second was the gloomy future before the cane growers in consequence of the removal of the sugar duties, which the residents claim means ruin not only to the grower of cane but to the business people. The dairying industry, which is taking such a firm hold of the district, is yet on its trial, and may not secure that boom of prosperity which all look forward to so confidently.
THE AUSTRALIAN HOTEL, BALLINA (Mr. W. Webster, proprietor). Our excellent picture of the house, which is undoubtedly one of the best known commercial and family hotels in the Northern districts. Its accommodation leaves nothing to be desired, as I can personally testify. An ample bill of fare at each meal, polite attention, a spacious sleeping room and comfortable bed, scrupulously clean and inviting, and good bathrooms fill, I opine, all the requirements of the weary traveller and resident customer. The “make-yourself-at-home” manner of the genial host and hostess is the best recommendation to those who travel the country on either business or pleasure. The hotel is the freehold property of Mr. Webster, who had it built from specially prepared designs, and stands on a prominent corner site in River-street, adjacent to the public buildings and wharves. A large balcony, extending along the front and the side of the building, forms a great promenade besides commanding an excellent view of the town and surroundings. The internal accommodation comprises 27 bedrooms, three sitting-rooms, with reading and commercials’ smoking and writing-room, besides a private suite of apartments and two bathrooms on first floor. The ground floor is set apart to two dining-rooms, commercial room, and two parlours and bar. The stabling accommodation is extensive and convenient at the rear of the hotel. There is also a well-fitted billiard-room containing two excellent tables. The household arrangements are under the special supervision of Mrs. Webster. The ups and downs of a pioneer’s life have been amply experienced by Mr. Webster, who, by the way, is a native of the Hunter River district. He arrived on the Richmond in 1853, and settled in Ballina in 1889. In addition to the responsibility connected with hotel life, he conducts two large butchering establishments at Ballina and Lismore, and personally attends the development of a dairy farm of 280 acres two miles from Ballina. Within his fences he has some splendid grass paddocks for the running of stock and large slaughter-yards. Mr. Webster, who is a justice of the peace, displays an active interest in all matters tending to the progress of the town and district. He has been an alderman of the borough for a number of years, and has filled the office of Mayor two years in succession. Last month he was again elected by his brother aldermen to that honourable position for the present year. During his Mayoralty in 1894 he was, on the occasion of a happy event, the recipient of a silver cradle, bearing the following inscription : — “Presented to W. Webster, Mayor, by aldermen of Ballina, in celebration of birth of a son during his Mayoralty, 1894.”
BALLINA. Ballina is not an attractive town by any means, and beyond the fact that it is the port for the Richmond district, has very little to recommend it from a visitor’s point of view. The only public buildings of any note are the courthouse and the post and telegraph offices, the latter with its clock tower showing to great advantage from any position when approaching the town. The clock and tower are of great service to the public, and the credit of securing the boon is entirely due to the personal efforts of Captain Holden, now mine host of the Exchange Hotel, West Maitland, but who formerly resided at Ballina, and was Mayor and an alderman of that borough for several years. A considerable sum of money has been spent in constructing training walls on each side of the Richmond River down to the entrance, and the results are deemed so far satisfactory, a mean depth of 12ft. of water at high tide, having been secured in a usually straight channel seawards. Regular communication is kept up between the port and Sydney by two lines of steamers — the North Coast S.N. Company running the Electra, Tomki, and Macleay, whilst Mr. W.T. Yeager is represented by a fine new steamer, the St. George, and the Oakland. In matter of accommodation and speed there is little to choose between the Electra and the St. George. Both vessels have established themselves as favourite passenger boats.
Communication between Ballina and Grafton, the distance being some 70 miles, is maintained by small steamers running to Woodburn, thence by coach to Chatsworth and again by steamer up the Clarence River. The journey with stoppages, including one night at Chatsworth, usually occupies about 22 hours. It is interesting to note after leaving Ballina that the steamer calls at Broadwater, where the very fine and extensive sugar-cane crushing mills, belonging to the Colonial Sugar Company, are located. The newspaper press is represented at Ballina by the “North Coast Beacon,” for which Mr. Russell is editor, and “Richmond River Times,” a weekly publication, owned and edited by Mr. Thomas Temperley, a sterling good fellow and popular citizen. At the last general election he contested the seat against the present sitting member. Probably he will meet with more success on the next occasion. The establishment of so many excellently equipped creameries and separating stations in the Richmond district shows what confidence the proprietors of these establishments have in the permanency of the dairying industry. Their great enterprise is deserving of all praise, and in benefiting themselves they are doing an immense service to the farmer by securing to the latter a ready market for his product. In view, however, of the possibility of the dairying being overdone, it is, in my opinion, advisable to retain the cane-growing by combining the two industries. At Lismore very fine creameries have been established by the New South Wales Creamery Company, and by Messrs. Foley Brothers of Sydney, who are ably represented locally by Mr. F. McCaffery, formerly of Kiama. The New South Wales company has also a very complete creamery recently erected at Casino, under the management of Mr. James Simes. At Newrybar a co-operative company is, under the guidance of Mr. S.H. White (who is also postmaster), putting through its separators between 1700 and 1800 gallons of milk per day. The same company has its principal factory at Byron Bay, to which the cream is sent from Newrybar, and there converted into butter (average output between 700lb. and 800lb. daily), packed, and forwarded to Sydney and elsewhere. Only a mile distant from Newrybar stands the creamery of the Brooklet Co-operative Company, which, under the conduct of Mr. J.W. Noble, treats over 1600 gallons of milk, the total daily contribution from 20 different dairies, the supply ranging from 30 to 230 gallons each. The factory has been established five years, and was recently fitted with a refrigerating plant. It has two chambers cooled by the ammonia system. The machinery produces nearly 700lb. of butter per day.
Our illustrations of the district are from the studio of Mr. Forrest Findlay, of Lismore.