John McKinnon’s fishing expeditions 1880 & 1893
Courtesy of Trove Northern Star 7 August 1880
The Evan’s River.
MR. JOHN McKINNON, of Oakfield, Coraki, write us the following interesting letter respecting his trip to the Evan’s Heads for the year 1880:–
Left Oakfield at half-past 1 o’clock on the morning of Wednesday, the 30th June accompanied by Robt. Dolby, Wyrallah, and Alex. McKinnon, Oakfield. We pulled down to Woodburn before daylight. The night being very cold and freezing hard, the person pulling could just manage to keep themselves warm, ears exempted; the nonpuller rolled up in the blankets in the stern of the boat managing to keep himself from freezing. We nearly passed Tuckambil Creek without observing it, the fog being so heavy on the river, we could not see the bank twenty yards off. We arrived at Mr. Trustum’s at day-break, the grass was white with frost. Found Mr. Trustum well and, as usual, ready and willing to take our boat across to Evan’s River. Boiled a billy of tea at Mr. Trustum’s where Dolby managed to thaw at the fire declaring that he had been frozen on the way down. After breakfast, Mr. Trustum yoked his oxen on to his slide, whereon we set the boat, and started on the overland journey which was accomplished in 25 minutes.
Launched the boat in the Little River at half-past 9 a.m., stayed about there until half-past 1 p.m., had lunch and started down at our leisure, arriving at Iron-gate at 4 p.m., where we had the pleasure of meeting another party of friends from Coraki, fishing, viz., Messrs. J. McLaren, H. McLaren, T. Nolan, (?) Munro and W. Munro. After exchanging greetings, we passed on to a camping place down at the Heads, where we arrived in time to pitch our tent before dark; the other party returned to camp about sunset. After tea, all gathered round a good camp-fire to exchange news, one party being a week from home were anxious to hear what was going on through the world. The greatest news we had for them was the capture of the notorious Kelly Gang; they telling us there was no sport in fishing, either in the river or on the headlands, as they only caught a few dozen since they came down. Not the least disappointed about no fish in the river, as there is plenty at sea, and if this weather should continue, would have plenty before tomorrow night, where I got them last year, at Evan’s Reef. About 10 p.m. all turned to bed, and were soon fast asleep.
July 1st. – A beautiful morning; up at daylight; slept well; first thing was to have a look at the Bar. Sea went down through the night, quite safe to pass at times; returned to camp, set about getting breakfast ready, roused all the others up, and looked up fishing gear. By the time breakfast was over, the sun was well up warming the morning breeze; set about getting the boat ready to try over the Bar. None of the others seemed like chancing it, it was not advisable to persuade them for fear of an accident. After getting lines, hooks, spears, lances, kellock and bait etc., on board, pulled gently outward to the Bar – tide running out – friend on shore walked down opposite the Bar to see how I would get on. Passed out all right, Bar very shallow, nothing like the channel there was last year. Friends on shore waved their hands as I passed out; returned the salute, and set sail, nice breeze of westerly wind urging the boat along. The first half hour sailing about on the bosom of the mighty ocean, all alone outside the breakers, was worth a twelve- months of our usual dull life ashore. After sailing along parallel with the beach for about half a mile, stayed and made towards the rocks, to see if any of the others would like to come on board. None of them making any sign, bore away round the headland and made for Flatrock Point, knowing that the others would walk over to there. Arriving there, dropped the kellock about a hundred fathoms from the point, and commenced hauling up schnapper as fast as I could throw the line overboard until I caught six, and not another could I get. I was wishing that my fellow fisherman of last year (Mr. H. Dawson of Woodburn,) was with me to go to the Reef. By this time the others arrived at the Point by land, so made ready to back the boat into the rock, to see if any of them would venture on board; but, behold! the kellock got foul in rocks at the bottom, and not a movement could I get out of it for some time. At last it came up, backed the boat in, and Mr. McKinnon managed to jump on board. Set sail and made for the reef; got there in about three-quarters of an hour, dropped kellock inside reef; caught some schnapper, one large cod. When our last year’s enemies – the sharks – made their appearance, however, it was the very thing we wanted this time for two reasons – first, to be revenged (?) for the destruction of our lines last year (?); and secondly (having sharkspears (?) and lines for them), to get their livers for oil for machinery. Three of them appeared under the boat together. Alex. hooked one of them on his schnapper line, small, but strong, with copper wire next to the hook. Then commenced the tug of war in real earnest. Had to play him for a long time, for fear of breaking the line. Reader, you ought to have seen the shape and grin of Alex. when the line would go wheezing through his fingers, raising flakes of skin. It was enough to frighten the shark himself. After about half an hour’s battle managed to kill him with the lance; it was far larger than we took him to be. We could not rise more than his head out of the water; ripped him open with the lance, took pieces of the liver out of him, and another shark about 3 feet (?) inches in length. Whether the big one swallowed him, or whether it was a young one, cannot say. I thought it rather large for a young one. It was alive, no marks of teeth on him. We took the young one on board, and kept him for bait, and let the large one sink to the bottom for his mates to feed on; reckoned it to be about 10½ feet long and before we opened him about 5 feet in girth. Considering it best to let them alone as it was not safe to be hauling such monsters up with a small boat, cleared out of the place and anchored outside reef. Plenty schnapper, mackerel and cod out there. I hooked a large (?) with him he managed to get into (?) in the rocks at the bottom, where he (?) for a time; but getting tired, he had (?). Next throw out I hooked a larger (?) to keep him clear of the rocks held on with might and main, and snapped the line that held the shark; but having plenty more (?), did not care much. Caught (?) schnapper and 3 (?) cods, when we thought it time to make for land. Found the kellock fast in a cleft(?) at the bottom, could see it, but could not get it out. Not considering it safe to dive down for fear of sharks, cut the rope, and pulled home. Not a breath of wind, sea like glass. Found out on our way back that there was no occasion to go so far out, as there is foul bottom all the way from the Reef to Flatrock Point, about three miles distance, one continual fishing ground, schnapper rising to the lines hanging astern as we pulled along. Arrived at the Bar about 3 p.m., crossed inwards – Bar quite smooth. All the other fishermen on the rocks watching us coming in. Spent the rest of the afternoon curing the fish, all hands helping. After tea sat around the fire, relating each party’s adventures through the day. The parties ashore had no luck in fishing; in fact our mate, Mr. Dolby, declared it was the worst day’s sport he ever had, as he was fairly knocked up walking over rocks and sand all day without getting a fish; and if that was the great fishing place he heard so much about, he had enough of it, he would walk to the river bank in the morning, and go home in the Sarah Hixson. Told him to come out next morning in the boat, and he would have plenty sport. No, no, he would be sea sick! All right, we’ll see in the morning. Turned into bed about 10 p.m., and were soon lulled to sleep by the murmur of the ocean.
July 2nd. – Another beautiful morning, up early. Did not rest so well last night, being camped on the fall of a hill, kept slipping down, and in the morning, found our heads where our heels ought to be. Bar quite smooth this morning, and after breakfast started to sea, accompanied by Messrs. D. Munro, R. Dolby, A. McKinnon. Had to leave the rest ashore as four persons were plenty in the boat, as we wanted to load her with fish. Their party wanted to start for home in the afternoon, but agreed to wait on us until 2 p.m., then to decide whether we should go or not. Passed over the Bar at 9 a.m., nice and smooth outside; pulled round to Flatrock Point, stopped outside of it. Cockswain called out – “Throw out lines, and let us see who will have the first schnapper.” Robt. Dolby, hooking one, sang out that he had the first; but was mistaken, his hook straightened and he lost the fish. D. Munro hauled one up quickly and quietly, and managed to land it nicely between Dolby’s shoulders, just to let him know that he had the first. Then commenced as fine a sport as anyone could wish to have. Allowed the boat to drift about with the current (a strong one running north); had to pull back now and then to the same place, leaving the lines hung after the boat; it made no difference whether pulling about, or at a standstill, schnapper we would get. All enjoying ourselves to our hearts’ content, especially D. Munro and R. Dolby, as it was their first trip out, only Dolby was declaring that Munro would break his back with schnapper, they sitting too close together. However, he managed to call out “grog, Oh!” at same time pulling a bottle of brandy out of one of his capacious pockets. Not so easy to partake of it, as at every attempt he would make to get a glass, a schnapper would haul on his line. At the fifth attempt he managed it, passed it round; all had a good glass of it and a biscuit, which we enjoyed much as we were quite wet with the fish.
Courtesy of Trove Richmond River Herald 14 July 1893
Fishing Excursion to Evans Head.
Mr. Editor, — Thinking that it may interest, some of your subscripts, and especially those who in the good old times long ago used to accompany me down to Evans Head, I now send you a report of the last trip, which took place on the 23rd ultimo and following days. The party consisted of Messrs. K. Nolan, D. Cameron, R. McKenzie, A. McKinnon, William Dolby, and your humble servant, John McKinnon, in Mr. Nolan’s boat. The forenoon was spent in making preparations for the trip, in providing eatables, fishing lines and hooks, Mr. R. McKenzie inventing a sail out of an old tarpaulin. Everything being ready, we left Oakfield at 11 a.m., calling at Coraki for Mr. Nolan, who we found out in his paddock. He did not expect us until 1 p.m. Here we stayed some time, supplying ourselves with things that we required for the trip, and waiting for Mr. Nolan. At 1 p.m. we made a final start, calling on Mr. Dolby at Oakland, who supplied us with a pair of sculls and a sprit for the sail (we broke one of our own sculls shortly after leaving Coraki). We agreed that the moment we passed the Municipal boundary of Coraki, all worldly care should be left behind, as well as age. We were to be young, free, independent, on pleasure bent for the time. We sped on, and on turning the corner at Mr. Denis McLean’s we set sail, wind in our favour, but such a sail! I cannot describe its shape, nor can I classify it, as I never did, nor no I believe that any other person ever did, see such a sail. It was far longer in breadth than height. Mr. McKenzie fixed a sprit in it to hold the peak of it up, but it drooped lower than parts next the mast. It was a nondescript. However, it helped us much, as we sailed most of the way to Swan Bay. As we sailed along we noticed many improvements made by the farmers along the river banks, in the shape of box drains, which were discharging much water into the river, especially one below Mr. Childs. In other places there were open drains, which are spreading out to wide channels, no doubt causing much damage to pasture, as well as crops, in time of small freshets in the river, let alone in time of heavy floods. There should be flood gates on all drains that empty into the river. The sugar cane crops along the river banks looked well. Messrs. Leeson’s mill was at work drying sugar which has been in the tanks since last season, in preparation for the coming season. On arrival at Dolby’s, Swan Bay, Mr. R. McKenzie landed with the sail, intending to give it a more shapely appearance. Then there was running and shouting amongst the young Dolby’s, looking for twine and needle. They found twine, but no needle could be found. Mr. McKenzie, not to be done, procured a handful of nails, and actually nailed the sail into something like proper shape, one particular grand stitch being in the middle of it with a five inch wire nail. William Dolby joined us here. We sailed most of the way to Woodburn, the sail being greatly improved in shape. We expected to be in Woodburn in time to attend the meeting re the Tuckombil escape drain, but having been so much delayed we were too late. Messrs. Nolan, McKenzie, Cameron and A. McKinnon landed at South Woodburn. William Dolby and self pulled the boat up the creek to Mr. Trustum’s, where we arrived at 5.30 p.m. The others walked out there shortly afterwards. I was pleased to find our old acquaintance Mr. Trustum hale and hearty. He would have taken our boat across to the Evans River by moonlight if he had known that we were coming, but his cart horse was out in a back paddock, and he could not find him until morning. We boiled a billy of tea at Mr. Trustum’s. He advised us to camp in his barn, as it would be warmer than out in the open air. There were a number of empty bags there, of which we could make beds. After tea we emptied the boat, and drew her up on to the bank of the creek. Messrs. Cameron, Dolby and A. McKinnon chose to camp alongside the boat for the night. Messrs. Nolan, McKenzie and self camped in the barn. Mr. Trustum joined us in the barn after tea, when the conversation turned on the Tuckombil Creek escape drain. Mr. Trustum is against it, as it will go through his land, and he does not believe that it will do the good expected of it. However, it was agreed on that it would do good in relieving the river in time of flood, just according to the capacity of it. The greatest drawback in making it wide will be the bridge that will have to be erected for the Woodburn-Chatsworth road. It was pointed out that if the road was shifted to the other side of the creek, crossing back again above Trustum’s, there is one bridge on the creek already, and another would be less expense than erecting one over the drain, as the drain will be wider than the creek — in fact it could be made any width if there was no bridge required over it. At 10 p.m. we prepared to retire for the night, Mr. Trustum giving us some fine oranges grown in his own garden. Mr. Nolan made a bed for himself on the slabs, of which the barn flooring was made, using a number of empty bags. Mr. McKenzie made his on a bag of chaff which he found in the barn. I selected a box three parts full of chaff. It was nice and soft, but the box was too short, only about four feet in length, and only long enough for the body, and the legs had to hang over the end. None of us slept much. Mr. Nolan’s bed was too hard, McKenzie’s too narrow, mine too short. The night passed quietly, except for some tremendous sneezing down at the boat, from one of the party camped there, finishing off with a great yell.
On 24th we were up early. Morning rather cold, with a slight touch of frost. There was a great sensation this morning. A lady’s handkerchief was found close to Mr. Nolan’s bed. He declared that he did not know how it came there, and that he was as true as a gun to his good wife at Coraki. At first appearance of daylight Messrs. Cameron, Dolby, McKinnon and self walked over to Evans River, carrying loads with us, for the purpose of making it less for the cart, for fear that Mr. Trustum would have to make two loads of it, thereby causing much delay. On returning we founds breakfast ready, and by the time that we finished it Mr. Trustum put in his appearance with horse and cart. We loaded the cart with our traps and lifted the boat on top of it, and started the overland journey at 8 a.m. It only took fifteen minutes to travel, over, Donald Cameron lending a spare horse in case of getting stuck, but his services were not required. The one horse managed it in grand style. We lost no time in starting down the Evans River. The tide was on the fall, and we knew well that, there were many shallows over which the boat would not float at low water. We started down at 9 a.m., and after getting stuck twice we managed to get down to the Iron Gates at 11 a.m. It was noticed on the way down that there were no fish of any description in the river— not even a shark, the cause being too much fresh water. We stayed a few minutes at the Iron Gates, those of the party who wore on the first trip were anxious to study the place, and all of us had a good look at it, as there has been so much publicity given to the place of late re widening it. The channel at present is only about a chain wide. There is another chain of flat rock just above high spring tide, which will be no trouble, to blow away. It is only a rotten volcanic rock, fill of fissures and crabholes. A few charges of dynamite dropped into the holes would blow it up. The most trouble would be to shift it afterwards. After that the hills rise on each side. Another idea is to cut a channel on the north side, behind the hill through a narrow neck of low land between a bend in the river above the Gates, and the head of a creek that runs up from near Captain Paddon’s, when there would be two channels instead of one narrow one. We pulled down to the entrance of the river, calling on the Captain to drink success to the trip. The Captain was away to a new rush on the Clarence beach for gold, a good prospect of which was found in the back terrace. We stayed at the heads for some time. Messrs. Cameron, Dolby and A. McKinnon took a walk along the beach in search of pippies for bait. Messrs Nolan, McKinnon and myself stayed and boiled a billy of tea, had dinner, and watched the bar in view of pulling round to Golden Camp beach instead of camping on the river bank as usual. The bar was calm enough at times to venture out. We waited the return of the party along the beach and took them across the river. Messrs. Nolan, Cameron and Dolby walked overland, Messrs. McKenzie, A. McKinnon and self proceeding by sea. We were very near making a mistake in crossing the bar. Instead of watching a chance as usual between the rolls, we pulled straight out. Just as we crossed the bar we met the usual three rolls that come in at intervals of a few minutes. We happened by chance to be far enough out to meet them before they broke, and by giving a good pull as the boat was meeting them it carried her over them without taking a drop on board. Nolan’s boat rode over them grandly. The sea outside was quite calm, except a ground swell of no consequence. We arrived at Golden Camp before the others did by land. On nearing the beach we saw two boats hauled up above high tide mark, and a number of men on the beach, who rushed down and helped to drag the boat out of the surf the moment we grounded. The land party arrived shortly afterwards. We lightened the boat of all our traps and looked about for a camping place. A kind old friend named “Jimmy” Corcoran showed us the frame of a hut close to his own tent, with a well of splendid water alongside. Mr. McKenzie and self put to sea again to try and catch fish. We found to our great disappointment that there were no fish about, there being too much fresh water along the coast, due to the late floods in the rivers. McKenzie caught a small jewfish. We returned at 5 p.m. and found the tent rigged and supper preparing. Messrs. Dolby, Cameron and A. McKinnon were gathering shells on the beach, Mr. Nolan attending to the cooking. We hauled the boat up alongside the other boats, one of which is from Byron Bay, a fine large boat well found in everything for deep sea fishing. She would carry about five tons. The other belongs to Captain Paddon, and both are engaged schnapper fishing when the weather permits. They send the fish into the Richmond River by cart, and by river steamer to all parts of the river. Of late the weather has been too boisterous, and the fresh water drove the fish off the coast. We made a mistake in coming down so shortly after the floods. However, we are here, and must make the best of it. After tea we had a game at cards to pass the time. Old “Jimmy” visited us, and invited us up to his hut to warm ourselves before retiring to bed. Messrs. Nolan, McKenzie and I went with him, we had a real roasting at his fire-place. He is quite comfortable, with a fireplace in one end of his hut, built with stones which throws a glow of heat all over the hut. We turned in at 10 p.m., the night being rather cold.
25th. — We were up early for a Sunday morning. It was cold, with a slight westerly breeze. This day was spent quietly, some reading others examining the different sea weeds and shells cast up on to the beach. A number of steamers passed — two south, one for the Clarence River, with a team of foot ballers, three north, the Tomki, Oakland and one of the A.U.S.N. Co’s., as well as two schooners. The whale boat from Byron Bay put to sea manned by a number of diggers and the owners. They were out most of the day but caught no fish. There is no schnapper on the coast (by their report). We will find out tomorrow, if all is well, said one of our party. We were visited in the afternoon by a number of diggers, one a Very funny man. He entertained us with many droll stories, on being that the lagoon behind the terrace was alive with hairy fish. On being asked were they good to eat he informed us that he boiled one, and shortly after eating it he had to heave ahead with considerable force. Then he fried one and had to heave ahead after the second bite. He was sure that it would make a man heave ahead that which he never ate. After having a quiet moonlight walk along the beach we turned in.
26th. — Very fine morning, but rather cold. Mr. Cameron roused us all up at 5 a.m. He had breakfast ready, and was in great haste to get out to sea. One by one turned out, and had a wash in very cold water. We had breakfast, and prepared to go out to sea. A strong breeze from the N.W. sprang up, compelling us to wait for some time for fear that it would increase. We strolled down to Schnapper Rock, over which the ground swell was breaking now and then. We just managed to get on to it for a few minutes at a time, and then run for our lives. I was lucky in hooking a fine jewfish, which I managed to land in on top of a sea that rose level with the rock. It dropped off the hook on the edge of the rock, when William Dolby sprang on top of him and had him carried away before the next sea came in. The wind now slackening a little, we put to sea — D. Cameron, William Dolby, A. McKinnon and self. We could not see McKenzie or Nolan anywhere about. We tried fishing in all directions, but could not get a fish until we arrived at the south end of the Evans reef. There we caught 14 schnapper, 1 cod fish (about 501bs.), another fully l00lbs., and a shark. Donald Cameron and A. McKinnon felt like as if they were on the eve of turning inside out, this being the first time for the former to be out at sea in a boat. He battled bravely against seasickness, and would not give in, one moment being very sick and the next hauling in schnapper. The sea was just what would make a man sick. There was a lumpy sea from the west, and a lumpy ripple from the reef. We returned in at 1 p.m., and found Messrs. Nolan and McKenzie at camp all well, and dinner waiting us, McKenzie being quite indignant as us for venturing out without him, he being the only able seaman in the party. In the afternoon McKenzie and self pulled out to sea again. There were no fish to be had near at hand and it was too far to go to the reef. There was fresh water about, and a strong current set to the north. We returned in at 5 p.m. without a fish. There was quite a rush to the supposed find of gold, and fully 20 horsemen passed through in the forenoon. There was some fun on the beach to-day. One party of diggers working near Golden Camp cut an outlet from the swamp behind the terrace to the sea and as the water ran out an astonishing number of eels rushed out. They were in hundreds, the diggers killing them with spades and shovels. They were the hairy fish of the funny man. We amused ourselves in the evening playing cards and conversing with a number of diggers that paid us a visit, the funny young man amongst them. All turned in at 10 p.m. [to be continued.]
Courtesy of Trove Richmond River Herald 21 July 1893
Fishing Excursion to Evans Head.
[Continued from last issue.]
27th. — That bothering D. Cameron had us up again this morning at 5 o’clock. It was rather cold, wind westerly in the early morning, turning round by south to south-east in the afternoon. Messrs. Nolan, Cameron, McKenzie and self went out to sea after we had breakfast.
We had to go all the way to Evan’s Reef again as we could get no fish anywhere else, thought we were trying all the way over to there, and only there just alongside the break on reef. There were but very few schnapper to be had, but there were codfish, generally too heavy for our lives, though occasionally we managed to catch one from 50 to 100 lbs weight. We only caught 12 schnapper, 2 codfish and a shark. Mr. Cameron was sick again, but determined as ever to conquer sea sickness. He is a good fisherman — a worthy disciple of Isaac Walton. Mr. Nolan liked it fine, and Mr. McKenzie was just delighted to be on sea again. The large, whaleboat came out, manned by a crew of six, as we were returning in at noon. On arriving at camp, we found Messrs. Henry Hook and Donald McKinnon there, they having rode down to visit us, returning home in the evening. Mr. Hook was much interested in the different things to be seen on the sea beach, and particularly at our primitive way of living down there. He seemed to be very much interested in our furniture. Our table was made of driving four forked sticks into the ground, with sticks laid between them, and a plank found at an abandoned camp laid on them. Our chairs were made by driving other forked sticks in the ground round the table, with ti-tree saplings stretched between. — very uncomfortable to sit on and often falling down with us. Mr. McKenzie and I pulled out to sea again in the afternoon, intending to try and get outside the fresh water. We pulled out as far as our fishing lines would bottom, but there were no fish, nor could we get outside the fresh water, without proceeding further than we were inclined. Late in the afternoon we pulled over to Evans Reef, and anchored in the old spot at the south end of it. There we caught 22 fine schnapper, mostly caught by moonlight, close to where the steamer Cahors was wrecked some years ago. The evening was a most beautiful one the sun had set behind the coast range in majestic balm, leaving a streak of crimson blushing clouds behind, with the planets Venus and Mars following in close order, while in the east the moon rose full and clear as if it was out of the ocean, casting its silvery light so pensive and sweet on the scene. The wind had died away into a dead calm. The ocean lay motionless, excepting a gentle roll from the south east — undisturbed by political changes, unruffled by reconstruction, noiseless except a break on the reef. We lingered there — Mr. McKenzie, just in his elements, enjoying it much. At 8 p.m. we left for camp, and shortly afterwards saw a bright light ahead of us, showing full and clear against the land. It was kindled by our friends on the headland to guide us to port. They were frightened that we had met with an accident. We had no means to signal back, having no rockets or anything else to show light. We arrived at camp at 9 p.m., and received a mild lecture from Mr. Cameron for staying out so late, causing them much anxiety. There were a number of diggers at our camp, the funny man amongst them also Messrs. J. and E. Fogwell, who rode down in the evening to spend the next day with us. We sat round the camp fire until 11 p.m. conversing on different subjects most agreeable, and telling amusing anecdotes. Mr. K. Nolan (or rather Alderman Nolan, member of the Works Committee, Coraki Council), has a store of very amusing little stories that he can repeat in a very amusing way. He is first-rate company on a pleasure trip.
28th. — We were roused up as early as usual by Mr. Cameron, who is a very early riser. After we had partaken of breakfast Messrs. J. and E. Fogwell, W. Dolby and self put out to sea, and pulled right over to Evans Reef. The wind was rather fresh, but it slackened as the day advanced. We had to go the same place at the reef to catch fish. We got on very well for a short time, and caught ten schnapper and one codfish which Mr Fogwell caught. Mr. E. Fogwell managed to catch one schnapper when he commenced to feed the sharks, and was quite unable to sit up until we returned to land at noon. We arrived at camp at 1 p.m., where we found, dinner ready waiting for us, to which we did ample justice. Those left at camp amused themselves in various ways, some walked into the river to fish for whiting for bait. They only caught two very small ones. Mr. Nolan walked over to the new rush, but he did not think much of it. Messrs. J. and E. Fogwell returned home in the afternoon. Messrs. McKenzie, Cameron, Dolby and self went out again late in the afternoon, and only caught seven schnapper. We were observing every evening flights of sea birds coming in from sea towards the land, showing that the fish were out at a distance. This evening they came in earlier. The fresh water had now disappeared from the coast. We returned to camp at 8 p.m., and found a number of diggers, with Messrs. Nolan and A. McKinnon, who stayed at camp, and our friend the funny man with them, also Mr. Jos. Corcoran, who kindly invited us up to his hut every evening to warm ourselves before we turned into bed.
29th. — Another fine morning. We were up as early as usual, and had breakfast at 7 a.m., after which Messrs. McKenzie, Cameron, Dolby and self went off fishing. There was a light westerly wind as we left. No sooner had we got outside than we noticed a change; the whole coast was alive with sea birds and porpoise. We pulled out to the reef and caught 21 schnapper and three codfish, McKenzie catching two of the cod, and myself the other. I hooked a monster ground shark, which Mr. Cameron helped to lift into the boat. On opening the shark there were 30 young ones in its inside, each about 8 inches in length, with the, embryo egg hanging to them. Mr. Cameron mastered the seasickness today. He felt quite at home on the sea. In returning from the reef we came across a school of schnapper. We caught 20 in a very short time. While fishing here a rather strange thing happened. Mr. Cameron was sitting forward in the boat and wishing that he could catch one of the large codfish. Mr. McKenzie, who was sitting in the stern, suggested that he should sit next him on the other side, which he did, and shortly afterwards hooked a fine fish, which he got on board with McKenzie’s help. It was fully 100 lbs. weight. After this Mr. Cameron declared that he did not care whether he caught another fish or not on the trip. Then W. Dolby expressed a similar wish and changed seats with Mr. Cameron, and almost immediately caught one about 30 lbs. weight. We left for camp at noon, having had to cut the anchor rope, which was fast in the bottom. We reached camp at 1 p.m., with 41 schnapper and five cod. We found dinner ready for us, and our friends at camp waiting patiently for us. This was to be our last day down, as we arranged to return home next day. Leaving Messrs. Dolby and A. McKinnon to mind camp, and cure the fish caught in the forenoon, Messrs. Nolan, McKenzie, Cameron and self put out to sea again late in the afternoon, intending to carry home fresh with us any fish that we may catch. We had not to go over to the reef this time, as we met on the way shoals of small herrings, with a variety of large fishes in pursuit — schnapper amongst them. We caught 21 schnapper in a very, short time, Messrs. Nolan and McKenzie being most fortunate, the former taking the largest schnapper of the trip. Mr. Cameron hooked a monster codfish, but lost him. We returned to land at 7 p.m. The evening was very fine, with no wind, and moon on the full, bright and clear. A very large steamer passed close outside of us, with all her cabin lights showing brightly. It looked like the side of a street lighted with gas. We arrived at camp at 8 p.m., where we found tea waiting, Dolby acting as cook. He played a fine trick on us. He had piles of fish fried nicely for us, on which we made an onslaught with ravenous appetites, but instead of frying fresh fish he had fried salt ones and it would have almost been as well to eat salt. The consequence was there was but very little sleep enjoyed throughout the night; those that partook of it kept drinking all night, and our salt-fish supper nearly killed some of us. As usual a number of the diggers visited us, also our friend James Corcoran, and the funny man with them. We passed an hour or two in conversation round the camp fire, then the diggers left us, wishing us a bon voyage home, and we wishing them good luck. Mr. Nolan accompanied Mr. Corcoran to his hut to get a good warming before turning in for the night. For the information of anyone that may feel curious enough to know how we made our beds for the night, I may state that we had mother earth as our bed, with the sail spread under us. Our first performance was to dig the ground so as to make it soft, spread the sail on it (or empty bags), then dress in all the spare clothing that you had (I speak for the outside sleepers), then roll in your blanket, with anything that you could find suitable for a pillow. Those in the middle could undress, except their boots and hats. All turned in at 11 p.m.
30th. — Fine, with westerly wind. We were up early as usual, and commenced packing up our things for the home trip, Mr. Cameron having breakfast ready by daylight. We had some trouble in shipping our things on board our boat. Two of the party had to wade out with the boat to where she could float, and hold her there facing the sea that was breaking on the beach, while the others loaded her. We were landing on an open beach all the time, only it is sheltered by Evans Head at Schnapper Rock. There is no doubt but that there could be a nice boat harbour made there by a little expenditure in making a breakwater of a few chains in length, which would become a valuable fishing station. We managed to ship all our luggage on board by 8 a.m., Messrs. McKenzie, Cameron and self taking the boat round to Evans River, and the remainder of the party walking overland. We crossed in safely, and met the land party at the entrance to the river, and started up river at 9 a.m., calling at Captain Paddon’s on the way for a parting drink. Captain Paddon is building an additional room to his house. Whether it be for the better accommodation of the public, or the increase of his family I cannot say. (The oysters of Evans River are famous.) In starting for home we arranged to leave the heads with the flowing tide, expecting it to carry us all the way in both rivers to Coraki, as we had done many times before, but were greatly disappointed. The morning tide, as is generally the case at this time of the year, especially if westerly winds prevail, is of no consequence. It only carried us to about a mile above the Iron Gates. We arrived at top of Evans River at 11.30 a.m., having run aground twice on the way up. On arrival Mr. Cameron walked over to Mr. Trustum’s to inform him of our arrival, and by the time we had the boat emptied and drawn up on the bank and dinner ready, young Trustum arrived and took the boat and all our traps across to Tuckombil Creek without a mishap, only charging 10s for the round trip. We left there at about 1 p.m., some of our party walking, and the others going by boat to Woodburn. From there up the Richmond River we had the tide against us. We called at Mr. Meston’s sugar mill to have a look at his bone crusher, and to see Mr. Meston, but he was away on the Clarence River. Our next call was at Mr. Dolby’s to land W. Dolby. Then we settled down to a tiresome pull up to Coraki, as we thought, but were agreeably met by the steamers Macleay and Casino below Mr. Leeson’s sugar mill, the latter discharging cargo on board the former, and just about casting off. We pulled with a will, knowing that if Captain Storey was on board the Casino he would give us a tow up. We were not disappointed. He was there and welcomed us back to civilisation heartily, and towed us up to Coraki, of which we were most thankfully glad arriving there at 6 p.m. On crossing a certain line below Mr. Johnson’s, South Coraki, it was observed that the furrows on the brows of two of the party deepened, their lips hung down considerably, and old age returned. On Mr. Cameron inquiring anxiously what was the matter, he was seriously informed that we had passed within the boundary of the Coraki Municipality. Mr. Nolan landed, Messrs. McKenzie, Cameron, A. McKinnon and self taking the boat up to Oakfield, where we arrived at 7 p.m. So ended our midwinter, fishing excursion of 1893, agreeable to all, except that we had to return just after the fish came in to the coast. The fish taken on the trip were — 121 schnapper, 8 cod fish, and a few jewfish and others. JOHN McKINNON.
