1887 Progress

Courtesy of Trove Australian Town and Country Journal 1 January 1887

(BY OUR TRAVELLING ARTIST CORRESPONDENTS.)

In addition to the splendidly fertile lands which stretch for mile after mile along the banks of the Richmond River, the district, which is one of the richest of the many prosperous portions of New South Wales, possesses a vast extent of back country; among which must, of course, be included the far-famed “big scrub,” which has been found to be so eminently adapted for both pastoral and agricultural purposes. It is only a few years since all this was in a state of primitive wildness, undisturbed save by hardy timber getters. At the present time nearly every available acre has been taken up; and hundreds of comfortable homesteads are to be found amid the clearings made among the heavy timber by those indefatigable pioneers of civilisation, the selectors. Two lines of steamers, one owned by the Clarence and Richmond River Steam Navigation Company, and the other by Mr. B.B. Nicoll, ply regularly between the river and Sydney, a distance of about 400 miles; generally completing the journey in some thirty hours. One of the greatest drawbacks which at present exists, and which tends to heavily handicap the progress of the district, is the shifting bar which extends across the mouth of the river, forming such a hindrance and danger to navigation. Often, when a heavy sea is running outside, vessels are compelled to be idle, being bar-bound for days, while the battered hull of the ill-fated Lismore, and the few remaining fragments of another vessel, stand in mute testimony to the frequently dangerous state of the entrance. It is but quite recently that the Richmond, a fine new screw steamer, the property of Mr. B.B. Nicoll, went aground, while attempting to effect an entrance; remaining on the bar for three days ere she was released from her perilous position. Fortunately calm weather prevailed during the whole of this period; else there is every probability that she would have speedily become a total wreck. During the time that the services of Sir John Coode were secured by the Government of New South Wales to report upon the harbors of the colony, he paid a brief visit of inspection to the entrance to the Richmond River, and doubtless will include a long account, compiled from various sources, in his report. No one is better acquainted with the changes daily occurring to the bar and the dangers attendant upon crossing it, than is Mr. Fenwick, the well-known pilot and steaming proprietor, who has for so many years been engaged in the superintendence of bringing vessels in and out of the port. The tug Protector is owned by him. She is a fine roomy boat, the hull of which was built on the river, and fitted with engines similar in design to those of the familiar Commodore, of Sydney. The machinery was supplied from the workshops of Messrs. Rennoldson and Sons, of South Shields. A first-class tugboat was lost on the bar some four years ago. Facing the entrance to the river, on level, low-lying ground, is the town of

BALLINA,

which has made wonderful advancement during the past few years. A large area is laid out with broad straight streets running through it at right angles. Numerous stores and other business premises line the main thoroughfare; and there is a number of hotels. The genial host of the Commercial Hotel owns, in the immediate vicinity of the house, a small model farm, which is well worthy of a visit. In extent it only comprises an area of an acre and a quarter. Yet it is surprising how much has been done. In one portion, securely fenced in, and utilised as a piggery, some first-class Berkshires are seen running about. These command a high figure, on account of their pure breeding. Another section is closed in, and the top covered with galvanised wire netting. This space is devoted to the rearing of hundreds of pigeons, which are chiefly bred for the purpose of the Gun Club, and for private pigeon matches, which are occasionally held here, and which attract numbers of visitors from all parts. The adjoining division is used for poultry, for the use of which an ample grass run is provided. All the available space in this miniature farm are planted with either vegetables or fruit trees; and the way in which the block of land has been laid out, and every square yard utilised, serves as an illustration of what can be done in so small an area of ground. Among the public buildings in the town, the court house is one of the best. It was built four years ago, and is of a neat and appropriate style of architecture. The old structure is now used for police barracks. The want of a properly enclosed paddock for the use of the horses belonging to the force is sorely felt, as now, in case of any emergency arising, much time might be lost by the troopers having to catch their steeds, which are grazed in the open. The public school is a very good building, constructed of red brick brought from the Clarence River. The average attendance numbers one hundred and twenty scholars, who are under the care of Mr. Smyth, the head master. The places of worship are all of weatherboard, as indeed are most of the buildings in the township, During the late prolonged and continuous period of rainy weather, the municipal council, over which Mr. Holden presides as Mayor, had plenty of work before it, having drains to cut here and there, wherever necessary for the efficient drainage of the lower portions of the land on which the town is built, and it is to its credit that it carried this out to the utmost of its power. They are now constructing large public swimming baths. The main river runs along the southern boundary of the town, and it is here that most of the wharves are situated. Often when a heavy sea is breaking on the bar, rendering exit impossible, the stream of the river and the wharves are crowded with shipping, steamers and schooners, all waiting for a chance to cross out. On the northern side of Ballina runs

THE NORTH CREEK,

a broad straight road, at the corner of which is the little post-office; and near this is the printing office of the local newspaper, the Ballina PILOT. At the end of the thoroughfare are a massive timber wharf and crane, opposite Jarrett’s Marine View Hotel, whence a good panoramic view is obtained of the mouth of the river. The North Head is seen, surmounted by its little white lighthouse. On the beach facing the ocean, some few miles to the north of this, parties of men are engaged in working the black sand found there, both on the shore and in the terraces, obtaining in many cases, a payable return of gold. Good wages are often made, especially after a period of very heavy weather. Close in shore, under the rocks of the North Head, lies the wreck of the Lismore, and a little farther in, on a green point of land jutting out, are the buildings of the pilot station. Several boatsheds are seen, in which some first-class racing dingeys are kept. In an adjoining building is the cumbersome broad-wheeled carriage used for the conveyance of the rocket apparatus, which altogether makes up a load of considerable weight. On the sand down below are the heavy whale boats used by the men. From the south a long sandy spit runs out, leaving but comparatively narrow space of water, through which the vessels pass. A dredge is busily engaged in raising the sand from the channel; but the extent of the work to be coped with almost neutralises the efforts of a single dredge, however powerful. Any scheme for the maintenance of a deep and safe channel must of necessity involve the expenditure of large sums of money; but, surely, the extensive and steadily increasing trade of the river is well worth of any outlay. The North Creek is navigable for about eight or ten miles. At its mouth and for some little distance, it is of considerable width, with dark colored, bush clad banks on either side. Just above the town, is a large saw mill standing idle, another proof, if one was wanted, of the depression existing in the timber trade of New South Wales. The large importations of American hard and soft woods appear to have most seriously crippled this important native industry. The foreshores have nearly all been taken up for oyster leases; the shallowness of the water and the mud flats, which extend for considerable distance proving most valuable for this purpose. As one proceeds up the creek, portions of the banks are perceived to consist entirely of masses of oyster shell sometimes to a depth of 15ft or more. This material is largely used, but not as extensively as it ought to be; for paving purposes the shells breaking up, and binding exceedingly well, and as they bleach white in a very short space of time, the appearance they then present is very pleasing. The oyster leases extend for a mile or so up the creek. Boats are to be seen, engaged in the operation of dredging for the bivalves. A strong iron rod is driven firmly into the mud bottom and a rope attached to a windlass in the forward part of the boat. The man then takes to the sculls, pulling away in the necessary direction. When out far enough the dredge, which consists of a stout wire net, fitted with a sharp iron scoop at the mouth, is dropped overboard. Then, by winding on the windlass, the boat is gradually worked back to the mooring post, when the dredge is hauled up and its contents emptied into the bottom of the boat where the oysters are sorted out, the smaller and unmarketable ones being skillfully chopped off and thrown back into the water, while the larger ones are placed in bags, which, when filled, are sewn up, and then in most cases shipped to Sydney. In some portions of the creek the foreshores are lined with mangroves, which appear to luxuriate on the low-lying muddy banks; but away back, at no great distance, farms are to be seen with acre after acre of rich green sugar cane. In places where the banks rise more abruptly from the water, the homesteads are generally built close to the creek, each possessing its little landing-place or timber jetty and boathouse, with light skiff hauled up, or a clumsy home-made punt lying moored alongside. Sugar cane is principally cultivated by nearly every farmer along the creek ; but the fertility of the soil is such that, combined with the general humidity of the climate, almost any crop would be found to thrive.

A SUGAR PLANTER’S CAREER.

Around Ballina there are many farms, and among them none deserves more special notice than a snug little property, situated but a short distance out of town on the Lismore-road, belonging to Mr George Martin, a native of Forfarshire. In the old country, he had the management of 520 acres of agricultural land in the Highlands of Scotland; but being desirous of seeing more of the world, he determined to visit New South Wales, then being so much talked about, on account of the wonderful discoveries of gold which had taken place. He secured a passage on board the good ship “Star of the East,” arriving in this colony in 1853. When he landed, he had very little money, and he first tried his hand in dealing in draught horses on the Hunter. After being occupied with this work for some time, he rented a farm of fifty acres on the Williams River, cultivating crops of both wheat and maize. During the six years he remained settled there, he experienced fairly good seasons. He then gave up the farm, purchasing another of an area of forty-eight acres, about three miles outside Grafton, where he also grew wheat and maize. Upon the introduction of the sugar cane into the Clarence River district some fourteen or fifteen years ago, he adopted the new crop, putting in twenty acres during the first year, and the following season planting an additional area of twenty acres. He sold a portion of his cane the first season; and in the ensuing one he erected for himself a mill possessing a capacity of three quarters of a ton per diem. The plant cost him the sum of £650 in addition to the necessary extra expenses involved in fitting and erecting the machinery, besides building the sheds. He continued to work the mill for a number of years, mostly using all his own cane, of which he had forty-eight acres planted. As time went on, however, he found a large family growing up around him, and not being enabled to extend his farm as he desired he sold out in 1879, resolving to come over to the Richmond River district, which was then beginning to make headway, and was being extensively settled. Upon his arrival he purchased 151 acres, selecting 379 adjoining – thus making a total area of 530 acres. Disregarding the advice of many well meaning people on the river, who attempted to dissuade him from taking up the land he now occupies (assuring him that it was not fit for sugar cane), he resolved to trust to his own judgment, and the result has fully justified his decision. In the first season he lost no time in making a start, beginning by planting ten acres with cane. The following year he purchased the necessary plant for the mill, giving the Atlas Company, of Sydney, the order for the machinery, which arrived in due course, and was soon fixed up and in good working order. Three years ago, he added a vacuum pan to the rest of the plant, with a view to improving the quality of the sugar turned out. The cost of the present machinery as it now stands was something over £2000. Last season Mr. Martin produced ninety tons of sugar, obtaining the top market price for it. All his land, which he has had planted with cane, is ploughed into ridges, leaving furrows between each row of cane; so that, by this means, the land drains itself naturally. In a comfortable residence, adjoining the mill, live Mr. Martin and his family, which now comprises four daughters and five sons; and as the three eldest of the latter ably assist on the work of the farm and in the mill, it is only during the busy season that extra labor has to be employed, when some fourteen hands are engaged for about three months.
Leaving Ballina early in the morning, a start is made up the broad, flowing stream, and soon the town, the houses of which appear at a distance to be built on a level with the water, gradually disappears from view, and homesteads surrounded by fields of cane or grassy paddocks are seen on either bank, which usually consists of low-lying stretches of land. Here and there, masses of dense virgin scrub have been left standing.
Pimlico Island is caught sight of. On the southern bank of the river is a large public school. The island is one perfect mass of tree and brush, with undergrowth growing in thick tangled masses to the water’s edge. A broad stretch of the river is now entered, and the township of Wardell is seen. On either side are large, saw mills — on the southern bank being one belonging to Mr. James. A large schooner, with tall, graceful masts and spars, is moored alongside the wharf. On the northern bank is the mill owned by Mr. Carter.

WARDELL.

is built upon the northern bank of the Richmond River. It contains one or two hotels. There are also several stores and business places. A large new timber wharf has been lately constructed and greatly improves the place.

BROADWATER.

Soon the steamer makes fast to a wharf adjoining the works, where a busy sight is presented to the view. Huge punts, heavily laden with sugar cane, are being relieved of their cargos, while men are busily engaged in all directions. The mill is under the able management of Mr. Wyness. In addition to the Keith Hall farm, where the company grows some three hundred and fifty acres of cane, large quantities are obtained from both up and down the river, as well as from along the Emigrant, German, Bungawalbyn, and North Creeks; also, from the South Arm. In close proximity to the works are the manager’s residence and the houses of the other officers of the company. Rows of cottages are built for the married employees, while the single men are housed in large barracks. Altogether accommodation is provided for about 200 men. A large water tank has been excavated for the use of all these people. The water used in the mill is brought from a distance of about half a mile, being raised by means of powerful centrifugal pumps, by means of which a supply of 7000 gallons per hour is obtained. Close to the men’s quarters a good sized weatherboard hall has been constructed for use as a reading-room, or for entertainment if necessary.

Quite a little township has sprung up around the mill, which was only established some five years ago. There are four stores and three hotels. The company engaged its hands this year toward the latter end of August, and there must have been over three hundred men waiting to be taken on. Many of these had come long distances in search of employment, and a large number were what is commonly known as ‘stone-brokers.’ The hotels were all “full up” the men running up scores, to be “wiped off,” if possible, with their first month’s wages. A few of the men had brought tents with them, and were ruralising on the banks of the river, waiting, like our old friend, Mr. Micawber, for something to turn up. Half a mile distant from the township is a good level racecourse, used by the Lower Richmond Jockey Club, which holds its annual meeting here, generally in the month of November. These races are usually well attended, and the men employed in the mill are then, as a rule, in the possession of a little money, as by that time they have received some three or four months’ wages.

WOODBURN.

Ten miles from Broadwater is the township of Woodburn, which is fast beginning to occupy an important position on the river. This is largely due to its happy situation; it being the nearest point on the Richmond to the Clarence River, which from here is only four and twenty miles distant, over a level road, which is, however, very heavy in wet weather. This route is used for the carriage of the mails to and from Sydney; so that a considerable traffic has sprung up, many passengers preferring to take the coach and proceed overland to Chatsworth rather than run the risk of being detained by the state of the Richmond bar. The town itself is divided into two portions, one on either side of the river, and between which there is a considerable amount of rivalry. On the southern side, whence the coaches start, a long line of stores and buildings runs along facing the main road, which is parallel with the bank; so that the town presents an exceedingly good appearance as seen from the water, and, indeed, it looks far larger than it really is. Some miles distant is a little colony locally known as “New Italy,” where some of the unlucky participators of that ill-fated expedition originated by the Marquis de Rays are settled, and have gone in extensively for viticulture, in which, up to the present, they have proved very successful.

Coming back to Woodburn, we find on the northern bank two large sugar mills, one at either extremity of the township. The first of these is owned by Mr. W. Gollan, who may be said to be one of the pioneers of this portion of the Richmond River District, as he is now a resident of about nineteen years standing. He has thus seen the rise of the place from the wild deserted bush to its present position. He now possesses about nine hundred acres of land in the neighborhood, in addition to considerable town property. Some four years ago he started his sugar mill, which contains a very handy plant of machinery. The cane is obtained from seventy acres of ground, which is mostly planted with Fiji and Creole varieties. The machinery was erected under the supervision of Mr. Pohlman, and appears to answer its purpose admirably. Indeed Mr. Gollan has been successful in securing prizes both in Casino and Lismore for the quality of the sugar produced by him. Mr. Gollan’s residence, a fine two-storeyed building, is erected close to the mill; and at no great distance, are the post and telegraph office, and the Commercial Bank. After we pass some stores and private dwellings Messrs. Meston and King’s sugar mill is met with. This has now been erected three years, and is fitted with a fine new plant of machinery, power to which is supplied by a twenty-five horse power engine; a separate one of ten-horse power being specially used for the centrifugals, of which there are four. The “megasse” is all burned for fuel in the factory, and the skimmings of the clarifiers are put through a powerful filter press, manufactured by Messrs. Bow, M’Lachlan and Co., of Paisley. When in full swing thirty hands are kept engaged, the mill possessing a capacity of turning out about four tons per day. It is a matter for regret that the depression in the sugar trade should cause so many of those fine private mills to either stand idle or to work for only short seasons.

SWAN BAY.

Swan Bay is five miles from Woodburn, and consists of a few private dwellings and Mr. George Leeson’s hotel, also Jno. Malone’s Post-office Store. Half a mile further along the southern bank is Street’s store. Buchanan’s mill at Buckindoon has been passed, and the one owned by Mr. M’Pherson is caught sight of, with a dense volume of smoke issuing from the summit of its tall, square, brick chimney shaft, clearly showing that this at least is busy. Mention must be made of the Long Reach, which is a magnificent stretch of water, three miles in length, and which would form a splendid course for a regatta. All the way up the river snug homesteads are soon on either side. Small clumps of bananas and cultivated patches surround the dwellings in many cases; while in the fields men are busily engaged in cutting, and the bright and gaudy red two-wheeled carts belonging to the Colonial Sugar Company are seen bringing the cane down close to the water. Punts are lying alongside half laden with the long stalks which are stacked up in as much order as possible.

CORAKI.

Nine miles from Swan Bay is the township of Coraki, and as it is approached, the fine private residence and large sawmill owned by Mr. W.T Yeager come into view. The house is a large two-storeyed building, the interior of which is splendid fitted up, colonial timbers being exclusively used. Some fine varieties are introduced into the wainscoting of the various rooms and passages, presenting remarkably handsome appearance. The walks around the house and in the gardens are all cement. A straight path leads down over a green grassy terrace to the private landing-place, next to which is the large wharf belonging to the mill. Alongside this one of the schooners owned by Messrs. Yeager and Company is lying, taking in a cargo of fine broad pine planking. Three shoots are constructed for sliding the timber down, so that very little time is lost in loading up a vessel. Oakland Sawmill is an extensive one, and in designing every attention has been given to the practical requirements of the trade. Near the schooner two large punts are soon laden with huge logs of hard wood. A powerful crane hoists them up, one by one on to the top of the bank, whence they are sawn up as may be desired. Two vertical and several circular saws are kept engaged, while at each end of the building, two small circular saws are, by an ingenious contrivance, made to answer the purpose of a crosscut saw for planking. Huge stacks of timber are piled up in the drying yard until properly seasoned, and two tonguing and grooving machines are busy at work, turning out fine smooth boards, ready for the hands of the carpenter or builder. Two engines, of 40 and 10 horse power respectively, supply the necessary motive power to the machinery. A blacksmith’s shop is fitted up with everything necessary for the execution of requisite repairs; and emery wheels of every description are supplied for the purpose of sharpening the saws when necessary. Tramways are laid on to every part of the mill, thereby greatly facilitating the progress of the work. A large trade is carried on with Brisbane, where the company has extensive yards. In the carrying trade, two schooners and an auxiliary steamer, the Emu, are employed, while two tugs are engaged upon the river. At the time of our visit the timber trade, as indeed seems to be the case in every portion of New South Wales, was slack; but in busy times sixty men are employed. Oaklands forms quite a little village with its row of neat weatherboard cottages extending along either side of the road, and a small hall occupying the central position. When we pass the mill and turn round a sharp bend in the river Coraki is seen stretching along the southern bank. This little township has of late made rapid strides to the front and seems destined to occupy a most important position on the river, situated as it is at the junction of the North and South Arms, where they flow into the main river. Coraki is built on an extensive flat, with large plains at the back. In the immediate vicinity are some swamps, but these could easily be drained at no very great expenditure of money. Next to the School of Arts is the new Oddfellows’ Hall, the front of which building will be utilised for the editorial offices of the RICHMOND RIVER HERALD, a well-printed and produced local journal started a short time ago in order to fully advocate the interests and claims of the port of Coraki. The main street runs along parallel with the bank of the river. The courthouse and police quarters are built at one extremity of the main street, and a little farther down is the port and telegraph office, a building which must sooner or later be replaced by an edifice of a far superior description. A store, a hotel, and the old premises of the Australian Joint Stock Bank are next met with, and a little distance on is the Roman Catholic Church, a modest weatherboard structure occupying a very valuable site, possessing a fine, extensive frontage. A few private houses, the promises of the Commercial Bank, and Quain’s Hotel come next, while lower down are some stores and a hotel, and at the end is the large sawmill owned by Mr. William Yabsley, a very old resident, who is also a large property owner in and around the town. The building used now for the mill was formerly constructed for the purpose of shipbuilding. This accounts for the peculiar angle at which it is built. The roof is supported upon enormous uprights, immense trees having been used. An engine of 35 horse power supplies the necessary motive power to the machinery, which comprises everything necessary for the large trade carried on. In the rear of the works, Mr. Yabsley has constructed a fine racecourse on the extensive grassy flat. The track, as laid down, measures exactly a mile. It is formed with the sawdust from the mill, and has been sown with couch grass, and will, when thoroughly settled, form a splendid running ground for the horses. The grandstand is well worthy of notice, being fitted up and arranged with every attention to the minutest detail, there being refreshment and committee rooms underneath, while outside there are a lawn for promenading, a saddling paddock, and stables.