1886 Progress

Courtesy of Trove Australian Town and Country Journal 23 October 1886

(FROM OUR TRAVELLING ARTIST CORRESPONDENT.)

IN AND AROUND LISMORE.
Lismore is situated at the head of navigation for sea-going vessels and steamers, at the junction of Leicester and Wilson Creeks. The channel of the north arm is very narrow and tortuous in many places; this being the case especially in one instance at the Devil’s Elbow, where it is but a hundred yards or so across by land, but fully two miles by water. From Coraki to Lismore two small townships are passed; these being Wyrallah and Gundarimbah. At the former there is a large sawmill, alongside which a schooner is lying moored, taking in a cargo of planking. All along the river bank is dotted with comfortable-looking homesteads, surrounded in most cases by fields of sugar-cane, which appears to be the principal crop cultivated in addition to maize. As Lismore is approached the country becomes more hilly in nature, and the banks are fringed with trees, among which are many willows, the graceful drooping branches of which hang down in pendant masses to the water’s edge. Soon rafts composed of huge logs chained together are seen floating in the river close to an extensive sawmill, the circular saws of which can be heard humming away merrily, showing that we are close to Lismore. The public wharf is a fine structure composed of massive timbers, and from it the road leads up to the principal street. At a short distance up the river is the substantial wooden bridge spanning the river, and which was constructed about three years ago. The town is divided into two portions by the river; most of the principal business houses being situated on the northern side. But the southern portion is making great headway, containing, as it does, one or two very good hotels and stores, and a large steam sawmill, and it also appears to be a favorite place for the residences of the townspeople. The racecourse is laid out on this side, at no great distance. The track is a fine open one, and the running can easily be followed all round the course from the commodious and well arranged grand stand.

On the slopes of the hills, and snugly ensconced in little sheltered valleys, are numerous farms; while even the summits of steep ridges in many places are cleared and planted. Mr. Larkin, the well-known storekeeper, possesses 200 acres of land, which is situated on a tableland, at a considerable elevation from the road. Leaving this a steep track has to be pursued leading up to the caretaker’s house, on arriving at which one is struck with the richness of the soil. About 100 acres have been cleared. A portion has been laid down with grass; but there is a large patch of pineapples, which appeared to be most healthy and in a flourishing condition. Beyond this several large clumps of bananas were luxuriating. In the little orchard adjoining the cottage are many varieties of fruit; and the manner in which they are flourishing serves to illustrate the adaptableness of this soil for orchard purposes. Among the trees growing are Japanese raisins, oranges, mandarins, loquats, plums, peaches, jackaranda, and many others. Few towns in New South Wales have made so much solid progress during the past few years as Lismore has done. This is to be accounted for by its situation, tapping as it does nearly the whole of the vast and rich back country of the Richmond River district. Ten years ago there were but a few scattered houses where now the bustling and prosperous township stands, with its main thoroughfares lined with busy stores, and comfortable private residences. Hotel accommodation is well provided for; the best among the hotel’s being Paulson’s, Dean’s, Cotter’s, Beaumont’s, and Smith’s. There are also many large business establishments. One of the oldest is that of Mr. E. Coleman, a well-known resident on the river, who has been identified with the district for many a long year. His present premises are at some little distance out of the main stream of traffic, but he carries on a most extensive business.

Among the public buildings of the town mention must be made of the courthouse, which, owing to a deep cutting recently made, is now far above the level of the road. It is built upon a hill, from which an excellent view of the town can be obtained. The public school is a good brick building, as is also the post and telegraph office which faces the public wharf. At the foot of the cutting on the road running up a steep hill leading to Ballina is the local hospital, additions to which have been lately effected, a large new wing having been built. The town was declared a municipality on March 4, 1870. The council, which is presided over by Dr. Bernstein, the worthy mayor, is about to erect gasworks in the township for the more efficient illumination of the streets and buildings. Close to the town is a large recreation ground, with inclosure surrounded by a neat white paling fence. A commodious grandstand has been erected. Opposite this is a paddock owned by Mr. Beaumont, where hurling matches are frequently played during the season. The Irish national game of hurling appears to be gaining favor among many of the residents on the Richmond, and during last winter several well-contested matches were held between representative teams from Lismore, Coraki and Broadwater.

THE BRUNSWICK ROAD.

The road running out to the Brunswick River passes through land possessed of splendid soil, highly suitable for either agricultural or pastoral purposes. The first place of importance met with is the little village of Bexhill, about six miles from Lismore, around which the country much resembles an English park; green awards extending back up to the sloping grassy hills, with cattle grazing here and there, upon the thick verdure, or resting beneath the welcome shade of friendly trees. The village possesses a hotel, kept by Mrs. Rhodes; and there is also Wither’s boarding-house. Upon the side of a hill is the public school. The post-office is inconveniently situated at some distance from the road. The coach driver has to take his vehicle in among the trees, and to pull up at the foot of the hill; being even then several hundred yards from the office. Adjoining the boundary of Bexhill is

UNARA,

the property of Mr. T. T. Ewing, the member for the district. The property consists of eight hundred acres, all cleared and under English and natural grasses. Lately the proprietor has gone in for dairy farming, having an Ayrshire and an Alderney bull, and cows of both breeds. About two hundred and fifty head of cattle are at present being fattened on the land. Last season, although the corn was affected with the blight, he managed to obtain eight hundred bushels of maize from off thirty acres of land. Pumpkins are also grown as winter feed for the pigs, of which there are several fine Berkshires. The property possesses a frontage of five miles to Wilson’s Creek, so that an excellent supply of water thus insured.

CLUNES

Clunes is a little roadside township some fourteen miles from Lismore. The only hotel is kept by Mr. George Jarvis, who runs the line of coaches from Brunswick River to Lismore. He proposes to extend his field of operations shortly by plying to Murwillumbah on the Tweed River, in order to meet Cobb and Co.’s line of coaches which are now running between Beenleigh; the terminus of the line from Brisbane and the Tweed. Clunes is surrounded on all sides by splendid agricultural country. Numerous first-class farms and selections are to be met with in every direction. Although many are as yet only in the first stage, as far as clearing is concerned, yet the quality and quantity of the grass already growing in the open spaces sufficiently demonstrate the capabilities of the soil, and there is little doubt that the big scrub will in a few years rival the south coast districts in the output of dairy produce. Many of the largest landowners in the vicinity are old residents of Kiama, Wollongong, Shoalhaven, or Bega, and they are thus enabled to bring all their past experience to bear upon the development of their properties.

Leading away from the township a narrow bridle path runs in and out through the dense scrub. Huge roots of fig trees and iron wood stretch across the track; in many instances proving such an obstruction, that they have had to be cut through in order to allow a passage. The foliage and general scenery are similar to those met with in every portion of the big scrub. Underfoot is the rich virgin soil, slippery and muddy at the time of our visit, owing to the copious and welcome rains which had fallen. Overhead are the spreading branches of the tall straight trees, almost obscuring from view the clear Austral sky, while the dense undergrowth consists of rich-foliaged plants of almost every description. It is not to be wondered at that a country producing such a wealth of natural vegetation should prove so fertile when the science and labor of man are brought into operation upon it. After we have passed through a mile or so of this scrub, a large clearing is entered. This is a portion of Mr. Johnson’s farm. On the level grassy meadows a herd of fine fat bullocks is seen; while at no great distance is the comfortable homestead of the proprietor, built at the foot of a densely-wooded ridge. Crossing a log spanning the waters of the creek, we come to

LAURELDALE,

the property of Mr. Hetherington, who, when he first settled here, some seven years ago, found the country very different from what it is at the present time. The nearest property at that period was that of Mr. Ewing, which we have already mentioned. He lost no time in setting to work clearing his land falling all the larger timber, and running a fire through the remainder – a most expeditious manner of clearing away the smaller trees and undergrowth, and one which is almost generally practiced in the dense sands on the Tweed. Mr Hetherington is now the possessor of 440 acres of splendid level land, 100 acres of which are cleared and well set with rye grass. Notwithstanding the dry seasons experienced during the past two or three years, he has never had the misfortune to lose a single beast through want of feed. This year the property is looking in splendid condition. Some fine cattle are kept, and a herd of about forty cows are grazed, but Mr Hetherington chiefly confines his attention to horse breeding. Amongst his stud is Ad Valorem, one of the Dyraaba breeding. It is by Captivator out of Azalea by Kelpie out of Amber, granddam of Dagworth by Glaucus, the imported Arab from Splendora (imp.). As a two-years-old it won the two produce stakes at Grafton, next year; with 7st 4lb up, it pulled off the one mile handicap at Casino, beating Yately, and several others. On Anniversary Day at Randwick, it won the three-quarter mile handicap, passing Hypatia and fifteen others. It then carried off the Hawkesbury Handicap covering the distance in remarkably fast time. This grand animal was purchased by Mr. Hetherington, early in the present year, and should prove a valuable acquisition. He also owns Terralong, a fine chestnut horse, by Trump Card out of Crazy Jane, the winner of Tattersalls Cup. This horse won the Goulburn Cup two years in succession, and proved successful in many other minor races. Terralong is very well known all along the southern coast. Prince of Wales, a dark chestnut, carried off the first prize as the best farm horse at the last show at Lismore. Mr. Hetherington does little as far as dairy produce is concerned, but in an adjoining property a large

STEAM BUTTER FACTORY

has been erected by Mr. Walmsley, an old resident of Kiama, who was induced to leave his old home and to settle in the newer and less-worked district of the Richmond. He now owns altogether about one thousand acres of land, nearly one-half of which is cleared. The property possesses an extensive frontage to Wilson’s Creek, so that a good supply of water can always be obtained. Upon a fine elevated site commanding a good view of the surrounding country, a large and comfortable house has been erected. In the rear of this is the factory, only lately finished. The building is constructed in excellent style, and designed carefully for its intended purposes. A fall of 3in in the floor insures the efficient draining off of any water or refuse. A fine cooling room, measuring 18ft by 12ft. has been set aside for the storage of butter. This will eventually be double-lined with some non-conducting material. Water is obtained from a tank which when full, contains about 30,000 gallons, all of which is obtained by means of roof drainage. The plant is worked by a vertical Tangye engine of six-horse power. A Danish separator is used for separating the cream from the milk, and the butter is made in a large square box churn, manufactured by Messrs. D. Finlayson and Co., Kiama. Every facility is given for efficiently washing and cleaning the articles used – a most important desideratum in a dairy farm. The butter will be manufactured under the personal supervision of Mr. A. J. Walmsley, who has had considerable experience in a similar capacity both in Kiama and Albion Park. The enterprise of Mr. Walmsley in the construction of the factory, will be emulated by many others, throughout the fertile land of the “big scrub,” and considerable impetus will thus be given to the industry, which seems destined to become one of the most important on the Richmond River.