SPECIAL REPORT in the Australian Town and Country Journal
Courtesy of Trove Part One 26 September 1885
An excursion to the famed Richmond River was given by Mr. B.B. Nicoll, steamship owner, Sydney. Invitations were issued to a number of the leading citizens of Sydney, and accepted. As the new steamer Richmond arrived from the old country on the 11th instant, it was decided that she should make her maiden trip under these favorable auspices. Despite the short notice, the fine steamer was ready to time, and Saturday night, September 12, saw her steaming away on what promised to be one of the most enjoyable excursions organised in Sydney.
The company consisted of about seventeen, from among whom officers were elected as follows: Admiral, B.B. Nicoll; commodore, John Pope; commander, Thomas P. Thompson; chief engineer, J. MacGregor Dunn; chaplain, W.H. Jennings; war correspondent, Frank Bennett; médecin en chef, S.L. Bensusan. The rank and file were Mrs. B.B. Nicoll, Mrs. Edwards, Messrs. J.S. Jamieson, E.C. Prosser, Thomas Peate, W.C. Hoyte, Perry, Mr. and Mrs. W. Neill, A.D. Hunter, and a representative of the JOURNAL.
OUR VESSEL.
With such valuable freight on board, a short description of the vessel on which the honor was conferred is necessary. The Richmond is a new steamer designed to suit the requirements of the Richmond River trade. The vessel was built and engineered by the well-known firm of Gourlay Brothers, of Dundee. Her dimensions are- Length, 178ft; beam, 27ft 6in, and depth of hold 10ft 6in, giving her a tonnage of 403 tons net, and 628 tons gross. She is plated with the best mild steel. The engines are compound inverted surface-condensing, of 105 horse-power nominal, working up to 600 horsepower. The high-pressure cylinder is 23in, and the low-pressure cylinder 46in in diameter, with a stroke of 30in. The engines are fitted with starting gear of continuous motion, and driven by a small detached engine. Steam is generated in a single circular steel boiler with three furnaces, tested up to 215 lb to the square inch; and having a working pressure of 100 lb. Its dimensions are 13ft 6in by 10ft 3in. One of Durham and Churchill’s reclometers regulates the engines with the motion of the vessel. The vessel has been very handsomely modelled, and her appearance is enhanced by her neat, lofty rig as a topsail schooner. Her accommodation equals, if not surpasses, that of any vessel sailing out of Sydney. The saloon is situated aft, and entered from a teakhouse on deck. A companion ladder leads to both sides of the fore end of the dining saloon. The first glimpse of this compartment, especially when lit up in the evening, is particularly attractive, and ought to serve to remove that peculiar feeling which affects most passengers. An involuntary pause is made on the landing to take in the surroundings. The saloon, 65ft in length, seems to extend to a much greater extent. On each side the jalousie work is of polished maple, with a light border of teak, and surmounted by a handsome gold beading and brackets. The transoms, with their setting of dark red velvet, form a half circle, and complete the design. The rudder trunk is concealed by the Australian emblem- the kangaroo and the emu- in the centre of which are a chronometer and a barometer. Some distance back is the inner skin of the counter, neatly panelled off with maple, teak, and gilt brackets, giving a finished appearance to the picture. Berthing accommodation for about sixty passengers is supplied, and a long table, extending the whole length of the saloon, will seat about that number at meals in a very comfortable manner, in revolving spring chairs upholstered in dark red velvet. A very attractive feature is a side-board occupying the space at the fore end. This is constructed of maple set off with imitation veneering work. A pier glass is at each side, and in the centre there is an array of silver which adds to the effect. Electric bells are fitted throughout the saloon and leading to the stewards’ quarters, situated in the alleyway on the port side. On the starboard side, extending forward, is the ladies’ cabin, a very tasty apartment, furnished in a manner which would compare with a boudoir of the most fastidious of the fair sex on terra firma. Here about twelve ladies can be accommodated. The deckhouse is entirely devoted to a social hall. It is well lighted and every means has been taken to ensure the comfort of the occupants. The fittings are of maple, teak, &c., and the effect is enhanced by paintings on each panel, representing music, science, arts, flori culture, commerce, &c., the work having been executed by the foreman of the builders. Round the aperture, which lights the saloon, are panels of maple fretwork, the centre containing a carving representing the emu and the kangaroo in their native bush. Stained glass windows add considerably to the effect. For those musically inclined there is one of Challen and Son’s pianos in a teak case, corresponding with the fitting. A permanent teak awning extends over the whole of the quarterdeck. The steerage is clean and well ventilated, and there is room for about forty passengers. On the trial trip on the Tay, in Scotland, the Richmond’s mean average on the measured mile gave her a speed of 13 1/4 knots per hour, and during her run round to Swansea, against a hard head wind, she came up to all expectations. On the trip to Sydney the engines made 116,000 revolutions per day of twenty-four hours, without a single stoppage for cooling bearings, &c. The engines were fitted with self lubricating apparatus, which was found to answer very well. Mr. D. R. M’Nidder is in charge of the engine-room, and Captain Peter Mouatt, who brought out the Bellinger last year, is in command of the vessel.
PROGRAMME.
Wednesday: Leave Coraki after breakfast, touching at Wyrallah and Gundarimba, and arriving at Lismore at about noon. General survey of Lismore. In the evening “Our Ball.” Thursday: Various Bs and Ss before breakfast. Do the big scrub. Friday: Overland to Casino. Saturday: Explore south arm to Coraki in the steamer Irvington; join the Richmond again at Coraki, and steam down the main river to Ballina, stopping at that place for the night. Sunday: All on board at about 5 p.m., and cross out for Sydney.
EN ROUTE.
The Richmond got fairly under way about 10.30 p.m. on Saturday, September 12, and a very jovial company sat down to their first supper on board that which was to be their home for a week or so. The conversation was pleasant, jokes were laughed at, and all seemed to be in a fair way to advance with a bound to that stage which is necessary, in a small company of pleasure seekers, to a due appreciation of the character, excluding all demerits, of each other. A gentle motion having a rather exhilarating effect, speedily gave place to a few plunges as an indication that the Heads had been opened out. To prolong the evil day, the majority sought the deck, but old Neptune had boarded the vessel and demanded his tribute. The less determined ones capitulated without terms, while the remainder, a decided minority, defied the old sea monarch. A strong head wind (north-east) and jump of a sea rendered things anything but pleasant during the night, and as a consequence, coffee at 6 the following (Sunday) morning was not in demand. Breakfast was a little better attended; but the officers pro tem, were non est. In fact, during the trip, the Admiral was typical of Gilbert and Sullivan’s operatic hero. The parson wrestled long and sturdily; but at last gave in to the enemy. On Sunday morning a glorious sunrise indicated fine weather, and there were still a pleasant breeze and a long swell. Newcastle was just abeam, looking like an Oriental city, its buildings showing up white and picturesque in the early light. Port Stephens was passed, and a fine stretch of coast line succeeded. From a white sandy beach rose a low bush-clad slope gradually ascending into more pretentious hills, and extending away back, range after range, until lost in a bluish haze in the distance. Passing Seal Rocks the seals were to be seen disporting themselves in the warm sunlight on the brown, barren rock, over which occasionally a wave would dash in white foam. The clear, blue sky, with a slight reddish haze away down in the horizon; the immediate surroundings of a pleasant wooded seaboard, and the white-capped waves breaking over the dullish hue of the sea formed a very attractive picture, and one which speedily drew the majority of the excursionists on deck. Yarns were the order of the day over a B. and S. and a smoke. A more rugged, but still bush-clad, series of ranges with an occasional stretch of sandy beach like a silver setting to some dark picture, succeeded to Cape Hawke, and thence along the Manning Bight, with its sandy beach. At dusk Cloudy Head light was abeam, the night being fine and clear, and the wind lulling. Daylight on Monday saw the Macleay Heads on the quarter, and Nambucca hove in sight, with its signal station and buildings standing out in bold relief in the clear atmosphere. Rounding a low headland, Triple Peak was passed. This peak, with its fleecy crown, bears a strong resemblance to Mount Egmont, on the slope of which flourishes the town of New Plymouth, famous for its iron sand, and the part taken by its early settlers during the Maori war. It did not require a strong imagination to complete the picture. There was the sandy beach forming the light, at the extreme corner of which were the veritable Sugar Loaves, the illusion being complete even to a slight stream hovering over the rocks which are in the distant future to form an ocean breakwater, rivalling even that of Plymouth. A little farther along the coast, the two prominent islands forming what is known as Coff’s Harbor, were come to. The islands, with their rugged appearance and dull brownish hue were in strong contrast with the back-ground of pure white beach, forming a fringe to some splendidly timbered country through which a small stream made its way to the ocean. Off the southern island the brig Jane was anchored, loading timber in the manner peculiar to the old surfing days on the New Zealand coast. Indeed, this portion of the coast bore a strong resemblance to a station on the East Coast- Akiteo. A stretch of apparently level land succeeded, and it had such a pastoral appearance that homesteads and thriving villages would seem a probability in the near future. Patches of thickly wooded country, with a seaward boundary of sand, continued to the vicinity of the Solitaries. The Split Solitary is a small barren island, which was apparently heaved up by an eruption, and in the cooling operation fell apart. Away seaward was the South Solitary, bearing out its name in every detail. Solitary, indeed, it appeared a desolate looking place, devoid of vegetation, with the huge waves breaking over it. On this island there are a fine lighthouse and keeper’s quarters. North Solitary lay a long way ahead, just discernible in the gloom. During the night our vessel arrived off the Cahors, at Evans’ Reef, and stood on and off till daylight.
VISIT TO THE CAHORS.
At about 6 o’clock on Tuesday morning; the excursionists were roused out to see the wreck of what had been the finest steamship owned in the port of Sydney. When they came on deck a grand sight was presented. A fine clear blue sky, perfectly smooth water, low undulating country, partly wooded, and fringed with a sandy belt. Then the air was so fresh and so bracing that all took exceptional interest in the surroundings. Two miles off the coast was the poor old Cahors, standing on an almost even keel, and with no indication that she was hard and fast on a treacherous reef, which was only shown by a slight break. The Sydney harbor steamer Albatross was moored under her lee, and in answer to a whistle from the Richmond, a boat put off manned by two men, one of whom was Captain Amora, the manager for Mr. Jeanneret, of the Parramatta steamers. He was soon followed by a boat from the Cahors, with the old Richmond favorite, Captain Alley, Mr. Nicholl’s right-hand man who has been intrusted with the responsible work of attempting to float the vessel. In the meantime a boat had been launched by the excursionists; and, in charge of the chief engineer, the war correspondent and a civilian, with two of the crew, she boldly made her way to the castaway. The civilian scrambled up the vessel’s side like an old salt, but a heavy sea just then broke over the boat, drenching the manipulator of war news, and subjecting the engineer to an involuntary bath. The return was made to the ship. A fresh party under the charge of Captain Alley managed to get on board, and a sad sight met their view. The decks were filthy with the dripping from the putrid cargo being removed from the hold, and an abominable stench half poisoned the visitors. In going aft on the main deck through the alleyway the stench increased. The saloon on the port side was staved in by the seas which have broken over her since she went on the reef.
All the fittings are smashed up, and the saloon destroyed. The fancy decorations have turned black, as if they had been burned, owing to the poisonous fumes, combined with the action of the salt water. Some cargo was stacked at the entrance to the saloon, and a horrible stench arose from this, causing several of the party to retire owing to sickness. The promenade deck had been clean swept by the waves, and seats were smashed up, skylights broken, rails torn away, and the whole place left in a state of wreckage. The wheel was smashed and the rudder was knocked about at will by each wave. The rigging was all standing except the foretopsail yard, which had been sent down, and at a short distance, unless the fact was known, it could scarcely be imagined that the steamer was not heading off the coast, and about to square away for Sydney. She is lying with her head in a south-easterly direction, that is right off the land. She can only be affected by a north-east wind, and the greatest force of that is broken by the reef, although occasionally a sea makes a clean breach over the vessel, and often there is no occasion to wash down decks. According to a survey and soundings taken of the reef by Captain Amora, there is a depth of 13ft 6in at her bows, shallowing to 8ft amidships, and again deepening to over 14ft at her stern. In fact, the steamer is all clear at the ends. She is lying on a shelf of the reef about fifty yards from deep water, and at the next spring tide an attempt will to made to get her off. There are still about four hundred tons of stuff in her, including water and refuse; but this is being rapidly removed. Three centrifugal pumps have been erected on board, and these are capable of pumping 400 tons per hour. Mr. James Cummings (Mr. Nicoli’s superintendent) is in charge, and he is very hopeful that he will be able to get her off. The only damage under her bottom is where the port rolling chock took the ground first. This has been torn away and the plate dented in, and the holes left open. The inflow of water is not very great, and temporary repairs are to be effected by planking, battened down from the inside. The engineer believes that he will be able to get steam up in one of the main boilers if he succeeds in getting her off. There are about twenty men employed on what might be termed the wreck. They live on board, and have had an exceptionally hard time. On their first arrival they say the stench was fearful, and after two hours below they had to come on deck prostrate from sickness, and they then suffered from total blindness. However they say now that the vessel is quite sweet. Provisions are supplied by the steamers Albatross and Emma Pile, which obtain their stores from the Richmond.
IN BALLINA.
A few hours later the steamer crossed the bar in tow of the Protection, with perfect ease, and moored alongside the Government wharf.
The scenery along the river appeared to the visitors like glimpses of wonderland, and one and all were unanimous in their praise of the splendid capabilities of the district for producing all kinds of semi-tropical products. The cane in some cases was nipped by the frost, several patches having had to be condemned and burned off. Others were in grand condition, presenting a bright green appearance. Cattle, however, suffered greatly for want of water, and numbers were seen lying dead or dying on the river’s banks.
In Lismore, on Thursday, Mr. B.B. Nicoll entertained the visitors and a number of the residents at a ball and banquet, in the Albert Hall. The affair was attended by about 200 ladies and gentlemen. From Lismore, after doing the Big Scrub, the party proceeded on Friday in buggies to Casino, where they were entertained at a banquet by Mr. Bray, the police magistrate of the district. The steamer Irvington conveyed the excursionists from Casino down the south arm of the river to Coraki, where they were met by the principal residents and invited to a banquet in honor of their visit. Several very nice little speeches were made by the local men and responded to by the excursionists. Shortly after midnight an adjournment took place to the steamer at Woodburn, and a return was made to Ballina. On Saturday afternoon the steamer reached Ballina, and the party, by invitation, attended Hart’s Happy Hours entertainment.
On Sunday afternoon the Richmond crossed over the bar, and before dusk reached the steamer Cahors. The Richmond was boarded by Captain Amora, who reported progress in connection with the attempt to get the vessel off. After a short stay on board the two captains, Amora and Alley, left the steamer in their small boat, and amid the cheers of the passengers proceeded to their respective vessels the Albatross and Cahors. The Cahors is in the same position as was reported in my last contribution. Since then, however, the pumps have been got in working order, and the leaks, independent of the main one under the engine room, have been tried and proved to be able to be kept under without any difficulty. The main damage under the port forward bunker was occasioned by the vessel taking the reef, in the first place, on the rolling fins (or as they are sometimes termed rolling chocks) under the turn of the bridge. This had been literally ripped off, tearing the plate in its course. A backing of wood, canvas, &c., is being placed against this in the inside of the vessel, and is being shoved down. On the return of Captains Alley and Amora the vessel is to be pumped, out fore and aft. The water in the water-tight compartments is to be pumped out by making an opening in the deck, and working the water out by the centrifugal. It was expected that when the water was reduced in the engine-room the steam would be got in the starboard boiler, and this driving the bilge and other pumps, would be a great help to the other appliances for keeping the water down when she floats. From Friday to Monday next (spring-tides), attempts are to be made to float her, and the principals in the operation are sanguine that they will be successful.
The steamer then proceeded on her trip to Sydney.
En route the excursionists entertained Mr. Nicoll in the saloon, and the healths of Mr. and Mrs. Nicoll were drunk amid cheers. The remainder of the journey was completed with all the accessories of smooth water and pleasant weather. Nicoll’s Wharf was reached before 2 o’clock Tuesday morning, and the majority of the passengers then disembarked.
Articles descriptive of the scenery and general capabilities of the river and district will appear in future issues.
Courtesy of Trove Part Two 3 October 1885
In dealing with this subject it is necessary, in hunting phraseology, to “hark back” from the termination of my first contribution. In that, I was necessarily compelled to give a summary of the trip, and to bring the party safely back to Sydney. My duty is now to take up the details of the excursion from the arrival of the Richmond at Ballina, on Tuesday, the 15th September.
BALLINA.
The view of this town and its surroundings from the entrance is very attractive. On the day of our arrival the water was perfectly smooth, and the dreaded bar and crossing (at high tide) could not be discerned by a stranger, as apparently deep water to the extent of a mile or so formed the entrance to what seemed to be a broad river. This view, however, was obtained coming along the coast and catching a glimpse of the town, &c, over the low sandy ridge, forming a formidable breakwater to the heavy surf of the ocean, which breaks on this impregnable bulwark, with the result that it is dispersed in small portions into the main channel, and during a storm is liable to alter the whole contour of the channel. Ballina is very prettily situated to a visitor from a vessel’s deck, threading the tortuous channel leading up to the town. Forming the northern portion of the entrance is a belt of sand inside the fringe facing the ocean, and this terminates in green, bushy, rising ground, which follows the course of the river as far as can be seen. The southern portion of the entrance is one of the most attractive, and, at the same time, most melancholy sights in the river. Just outside the present channel is the wreck of the poor old Lismore, a vessel owned by Mr. B. B. Nicoll, of Sydney, and which is still spoken of by the residents with feelings almost of reverence ; so much had the steamer to do with the making and present welfare of the district. Lying inside here are the “bones” of a small vessel called the Waimera, which was wrecked some years ago. A fringe of rocks, or rather boulders, forms a setting to those mementos of the unavailing skill of man against a bar harbor which is ever shifting. Rising with a gentle slope from the somewhat unprepossessing boulders is a bold headland, not exactly towering skyward in gigantic proportions, but clad with a bright verdure and crowned with that friend of the seaman -a lighthouse. The keeper’s house and a flagstaff stand out in bold relief on the level tableland, and fill in the last blanks in a view for an artist. A slight indent is speedily traversed by the eye, and on a smaller but somewhat similar headland, are situated the pilot’s house, with flagstaff, &c, for signalling. As the vessel proceeds along the narrow channel, and opens this out, Ballina comes in view, located on a level place, the houses being discernible through a belt of trees., A nearer approach rather adds to than detracts from the picture. On the starboard hand, North Creek takes it course away among a border of scrub timber to a large number of splendid cane plantations. Ahead the river stretches out to its broadest and most imposing appearance, with a border of cane fields and wooded banks, giving place in the distant background to ranges partly lost to view in the haze resting on the horizon.
Reaching the Government wharf, an animated scene was presented. Along a breastwork a number of vessels were moored, and on the wharf the residents assembled and greeted the new arrivals with cheers. About two hours were devoted to a tour through the town, and to the majority of the excursionists this was a very pleasant occupation after the sea trip. Although established for a considerable number of years, it was not until the last five years that Ballina began to wake from its lethargy, and assume that position which it is entitled to as one of the principal shipping ports of the river. During the last two years or so the place has been almost rebuilt; and several handsome and useful buildings ornament its streets. Land which a few years ago was not worth £1 a foot cannot now be bought for £10 in choice positions. There is a fine little public school here in charge of Mr. C. Smythe, with an average attendance of over 100 children. The population resident in the town is between 300 and 400. There are several fine hotels, a number of stores, banks, two places of amusement, and a nice building intended for a courthouse and post and telegraph office. The two last named institutions have, however, yet to be built. The incentive to building, and the increase in the price of land, are due to the enormous tract of back country, with its rich cane fields, and the establishment of mills affording employment to a number of hands who obtain their stores from the town. A number of creeks around Ballina add considerably to its importance and revenue. North Creek, one of the most valuable, extends for many miles into rich sugar country and small farms. The produce is collected by punts, which are towed by launches to Ballina or the mills, as the case may be. Then there are Emigrant Creek, Fisheries Creek, and Tiven Creek, forming an outlet for the splendid tract of country running back to the Brunswick River on the one hand, and Cape Byron on the other.
During the afternoon the steamer proceeded on her course up the river. On the port hand the land appeared to be swampy, but with a setting of low bushy timber. A little farther on the cane fields, in grand condition, bright and green, extended back from the banks till they were embraced by a patch of mixed timber, to which they gave a degree of attractiveness. A small wharf, where the punts were loading cane for the mills, was passed, and the crews and cane cutters lustily cheered the visitors, who responded. The banks of the river at this point were all low, but there were very pretty glimpses of the ranges away in the distance. The river now narrowed considerably and increased in picturesqueness, which was enhanced by several huts and selectors’ residences, nestling among the cane on the wooded banks. Thence past Pimlico Island, a Government reserve, which was once a dense pine forest, but which has been weeded of its fine timber by a few rapacious people, who apparently had very little appreciation of the beauty, and certainly none for the value, of such a reserve. However, the dense undergrowth and the remaining timber cover the island with an impenetrable mantle, which is the home of the birds frequenting the district. The thick underbush covers the banks in a green network down to the water’s edge, and with the surroundings formed a subject worthy of any artist.
At the back of this on the low mainland, Gorman Creek could be seen, with a little schoolhouse which is reached by the children attending it, under difficulties, as they have to wade across the creek. The Sugar Company’s tramway starts here, and runs back into the cane country for about seven miles. A number of canecutters’ tents, with the occupants engaged in burning “trash” in the deepening light, was an attractive sight, and brought into view a nice little homestead with a broad tract of cane extending into a background of forest, gradually rising in the ranges; which were partly lost in the dark clouds, the herald of a dirty night. A small densely wooded island, with a creek threading its way through the underbush, was skirted, and the river widened again, the banks being covered with timber and alternate patches of cane. The general contour of this portion of the river was very like the landing at Peat’s Ferry on the Hawkesbury. Again some of the splendid reaches of the Parramatta were faithfully reproduced, and the visitor unconsciously looked for the old landmarks, till reminded of the difference by a rising, little settlement flourishing on one of the staple products of the river-viz., timber. J.E. James and Son’s sawmill is situated here.
The houses nestling in a clearing on the edge of a valuable tract of forest country, the stacks of timber around the mill, and, above all, the number of hardy tradesmen with their wives and families who assembled on the banks to greet the steamer and her occupants as she passed, were apt illustrations of the grand future before the district.
WARDELL.
A little farther on north Wardell was represented by a hotel on the river bank, and a few buildings. On the other side of the river were the courthouse, several very good hotels and a number of stores; and along the river were a number of pretty villas and two banks. There are about 200 people here, and altogether the place is very go a head. This is due to a great extent to the vicinity of Messrs. E. Carter’s and J.E. James’s sawmills, which produce about 100,000ft of sawn and dressed timber per week. The timber is shipped to Sydney and Brisbane. Carter’s mill was visited by several of the excursionists, and the various appliances and the work produced were explained by the proprietor.
There is a grand extent of country stretching back from Wardell, mostly planted with cane, which comes through the town by road for shipment. It appears strange in a town of the importance of Wardell that there is no public wharf. The wharf is situated on private land, and a notice is actually posted to the effect that a thoroughfare is only permitted on sufferance. The means of entrance and exit are wretched. A track a few feet wide, on one corner of which there was a pigstye, is deemed sufficient for the immense traffic occasioned by the landing and shipping of cargo from an ocean steamer, not to speak of the ordinary business of the district.
Courtesy of Trove Part Three 10 October 1885
On the afternoon of Tuesday, September 15, after a short stay in Wardell, the Richmond resumed her trip. About a mile away, the river narrowed considerably, and two pretty islands, thickly wooded down to the water’s edge, with a small channel making its way under a bushy canopy to a branch of the river beyond, were soon left astern. Patches of the cane here presented a very poor appearance, but with ever changing panoramic like effect several splendid reaches succeeding, and remind the visitor of one of those beautiful views to be obtained from Middle Harbor, with the partially wooded heights of North Shore forming a background, which gained in attractiveness from its distance.
SOCIAL.
During the evening Mr. Nicoll banqueted the excursionists in the saloon. After the toast of “The Queen” had been honored, Mr. J. Pope, in a very happy speech, referred to the enterprise of Mr. Nicoll in having placed such a vessel as the Richmond in the trade of the river bearing her name, and he concluded by proposing the health of their host. The toast was received with cheers. The Admiral (Mr. Nicoll) briefly returned thanks. The popular Commander (Mr. Thomas F. Thompson) proposed “Success to the Richmond River and District.” Mr. Watts responded. He said that he had great hopes of the district progressing, and he maintained that, in spite of frosts and other drawbacks, it was bound to go ahead. Mr. W. Neill said, that although this was his first visit to the district, he could speak with some knowledge of it, as he knew the original pioneers who had migrated from the Shoalhaven district people who originally came from the old hills of Scotland. He concluded by referring to the work in the colony by the late Rev. Dr. Lang and the late Mr. Samuel Bennett. The chief engineer (Mr. Macgregor Dunn) humorously proposed “The Ladies,” and the war correspondent (Mr. Frank Bennett) gallantly responded, in a manner which showed his appreciation of the fair sex.
BROADWATER.
During the night Broadwater was passed. As the name implies, the river here widens out to some miles in extent, and several small green islands completed a scene which would otherwise have had an appearance of sameness. The general aspect of this portion of the river hears a striking resemblance to its namesake in Brisbane Water, the only difference being that the site of the town is dissimilar. The town, which sprang into existence with the advent of the sugar company, is on the left bank of the river, situated on rich level ground, with luxuriant fields of cane stretching away on either side. A short distance from the town is one of the finest sugar mills in the colony, that of the Colonial Sugar Co. The mill is lighted by gas manufactured on the premises. About 150 hands are permanently employed; but this number during the Season is increased to about 500. The output averages 300 tons per week of raw sugar, which is sent to the Pyrmont Mill to be refined. The cane is principally bought from the farmers, and the company sends its own men to cut it and bring it in in punts. The appliances for treating the sugar are perfect, and in addition to the routine work, a laboratory is conducted in the mill for the purpose of testing the sugar and arriving at the best means of economically extracting it from the cane. In connection with the mill is a model farm of about 500 acres, in which the several kinds of cane are grown under various conditions.
WOODBURN.
In pleasant contrast with the gloom and rain which had settled over the river, obscuring the view, were the inviting lights of the town of Woodburn, and the warm welcome received from the townspeople who assembled on the wharf to receive the visitors. This town, like most of those on the river, is situated on both sides. That on the left going toward Lismore is, however, the town proper. There are about 400 inhabitants, and the place has a thriving go ahead appearance. There are two banks, several very fair stores, and a number of hotels, &c. An illustration of the rapid advancement of the place is the price of land. Blocks which could have been bought a few years ago for 5s a foot could not now be obtained for so many pounds. Coaches run daily to the Clarence along a fairly good road.
SWAN BAY.
A short trip brought the small town, or rather settlement, of Swan Bay into view. This place is very prettily situated on a bend of the river in what might be termed a lagoon. Swans abound here, and from appearances this should be a sports-man’s paradise. The river is well stocked with fish and flocks of wild fowl, and the smaller birds peculiar to the river can be seen taking their flight from point to point of the woody banks.
To visitors passing through some fine country in the early dawn of a dull threatening day the scenery appeared at a disadvantage. However, as the day wore on the weather cleared, and a regular Australian sky gave warmth and brightness to the surroundings. Nearing Coraki the presence of Mr. W.T. Yeagers’s Oakland sawmill was made known by the shrill whistle of the mill and the cheers of the workmen as the steamer rounded the bend. There is quite a village here, the residents being the hands employed in the mill. The large handsome villa of the owner, with its nicely laid-out flower garden in front, gives a feudal appearance to the settlement.
CORAKI.
Among the pioneers of Coraki was a family named Yabsley, who settled on the river banks many years ago. By degrees they built up an extensive shipping business, building their own vessels, and they exported large quantities of timber. Other settlers took up land, and the naturally commanding position of the settlement, as steamers were introduced to the river and the establishment of sawmills and sugar mills in the vicinity, insured its prosperity. Within the last two years a considerable number of buildings have been erected; a good wharf has been built, and roads are being laid out in all directions, and the land cleared. At present the township is situated along one street facing the river, and consists of several stores, a bank (Commercial), two hotels, and a number of private residences. A public school has recently been erected, and the attendance of children from around the district is about 140. Land in the street mentioned has reached an exorbitant price. In keeping pace with the growth of the place, an intending hotelkeeper is having erected a building which will contain about eighteen rooms. Coraki in the near future gives promise of being the rival of Lismore in the shipping interest. This is only to be expected from its position. Situated at the junction of the North Arm leading to Lismore, and the South Arm, the waterway to Casino, it, to a certain extent, will become the terminus of the ocean steamers. As the navigation of the South Arm by the large steamers can only be accomplished to within ten to twelve miles of Casino, cargo for that place is landed at Coraki, whence it is sent to its destination.
Among the industries on the river, apart from sugar and timber, Coraki boasts of a soap factory, which is more than able to supply the wants of the whole district. The factory was originally started near Casino, but was subsequently transferred to its present position. Coraki is about 300 miles from Sydney, and 60 miles from the bar.
From Coraki, after a very pleasant stay of a few hours, which were occupied by the visitors in gaining an acquaintance with the town and its surroundings, the Richmond resumed her passage to Lismore. Right ahead the main river, as if conscious that it had devoted its whole energies to a country which needed its services in a particular degree, now divided its attention between the fertile land extending for miles on each side, and, leaving Coraki as the arbitrator the division of interests, it pursued its course in two distinct arms, the one opening up the territory to Lismore, and the other affording an outlet for the produce of Casino.
As we entered the North Arm, with its bushy banks, the bright cane fields seemingly smiled an acknowledgment of the grateful rainfall of the night before. A very picturesque settlement, composed of the hands engaged in cane farming and sugar making, with the mill and its busy surroundings, gave place to tracts of country burned off and ready for planting. The river began to decrease appreciably in width, and a biscuit could have been thrown ashore on either side. The really pretty scenery through which the vessel passed, enhanced by a clear blue sky peculiar to this sunny land, drew all the excursionists to the bridge. In painful contrast with the fair prospect spread before the view was the sight of the dead and dying cattle along the river banks. The poor beasts had been unable to find water, owing to the terrible drought having exhausted all the supplies and dried up the creeks, and they had made their way to the river. Here they miserably perished, their struggles being protracted sometimes for days. The animals on reaching the water were too weak to extricate themselves from the mud, in which they got hopelessly bogged, and they literally died of starvation, with plenty of good fodder within a few yards of them. These were the saddest sights of the trip, and illustrated the effects of a drought like that from which various parts of the colony are now suffering. However, to resume a more pleasant theme. The river banks on each side were here lined with willows, not weeping, as they are somewhat inaply described, but drooping in a graceful fringe of delicate green foliage to the water’s edge, and forming a beautiful veil through which bits of clear blue sky and the industry of the settlers were occasionally seen. As we emerged from this delicate avenue a group of canecutters, looking very picturesque in the midst of the green crop, came into view. The river still steadily narrowed, and became if anything more picturesque. Several small creeks making their way through the bushy banks to the river increased the beauty of the scene. On the banks of one of the largest of these, situated on a small grassy hillock was a little homestead which would compare, for the picturesqueness of its surroundings, with any of the handsome residences situated on the water’s edge of our own ‘beautiful harbor.’
Warradilla next met our gaze. Its situation and the appearance of the country generally reminded the visitors of a portion of the Hawkesbury near the railway bridge. The banks of the river were here strewn with dead and dying cattle, and men were engaged in dragging the living out. As the vessel gracefully held her course up the river and negotiated the sharp curves, her stem and stern were embraced occasionally by the willows which extended a few feet over the banks. Several gins and their picaninnies were fancifully grouped on a clearing in front of their hut, but they were apparently not much impressed with the sight of the fine steamer, if one might judge of their stolidity. In fact, one of them took up a position against the shanty like a wooden figure, neither life nor motion being observable. The vessel was gaily decked with bunting from stem to stern, and our gun was loaded to salute the Lismoreites on the town coming into view. However, this was some distance away, and the visitors found that nature, already lavish in rendering this river so beautiful, had a farther reserve of magnificent scenery for our admiration. Some very attractive cottages, the residences of the selectors and farm hands, were seen situated in clearings along the banks. One in particular, at a little place called Wyrallah, was greatly admired, and as the steamer stopped to land one of the most genial of the excursionists, an opportunity of taking in the surroundings was afforded. Mildura is the name of the cottage. It is owned by a Mr. Argue, an old resident on the river. The building is of one storey with two pointed windows rising from the shingled roof. A verandah extends round the building, covered with vines and creepers with white blossoms. Through this could be partially seen the front, with its wide windows and door thrown open as if offering an invitation to partake of the owner’s hospitality. From the verandah sloped down to the water’s edge a natural lawn nicely laid out with fruit trees (in blossom) and flowers. The picture was completed by the surroundings of fine canefields, the dense forest in the background, and the beautiful view obtained of the river with its willow-lined banks on one hand, and on the other the bustle of loading the punts with cane.
UP THE NORTH ARM.
Continuing the passage up the North Arm, after leaving Warradilla, the vessel wended her way amid avenues of willows, through which glimpses were seen of nicely grassed land with pine trees, and other valuable timber, extending to the tops of the ranges. It seems like presumption to attempt to describe some of the scenery through which we passed. Owing to the tortuous course of the river, the vessel occasionally described a circle in a few of her own lengths, and at times, after rounding a sharp bend, there seemed no immediate outlet. The river apparently ended abruptly in the slope of a dense pine-covered range of mountains. Surrounding the vessel were chains of low mountains, rising into innumerable lofty peaks; the foliage of the tall pines on the tops showing out in bold relief against the clear sky, which they seemingly pierced. The steamer might easily have been imagined in a natural dock, away in the heart of some mountainous country, whither she had been transported by the agency of the genie familiar to our youthful days. Anon the scene would change, as by a magician’s wand, to stretches of level cane fields, framed by forest and mountain. Wild flowers lined the banks, and staghorns and vines adorned the lofty trees on each side. Then there were real farmyard scenes cattle grazing with the unconcern peculiar to them, also fowls and other accessories of dairying. Occasionally a number of handsome rodbilla would take their flight from the wooded banks. The river would now and then depart from its crooked ways and adopt a straight course, looking like a thread of silver passing through the dark bush. Then an abrupt bend would be rounded, and the vessel appeared to be in an impenetrable valley, with the wooded ranges surrounding her. Gliding almost imperceptibly onward from a scene bordering on a glimpse of wonderland, the busy world was again brought into view in the shape of thriving cane fields and an occasional plot of ground devoted to the cultivation of fruit. As we passed the Gundarimba school, the children, appearing bright and healthy, formed a group on a piece of rising ground a few yards from the steamer and enthusiastically cheered the visitors. The welcome was returned with answering hurrahs. The navigation here became intricate, the bends being very sharp and numerous, requiring extremely skilful handling to get a steamer of any size through by water. Portions of the river reminded the New Zealander of the Avon, running through the Cathedral city. The willows rising above the vessel’s bridge drooped far into the stream, and the “swish” with which she passed by their delicate foliage was the only sound to be heard except the steady revolution of the engines. The approach to Lismore is one of the prettiest portions of the river. Passing through the avenue of willows, occasional glimpses were caught of the land at the back, either cleared and ready for planting, or occupied by crops of cane, among which the cutters were to be seen at work; and various picturesque cottages with their well trimmed flower gardens. As we emerged from a narrow channel lined with willows, Lismore came in sight, and amid a salvo of artillery (one gun loaded to the muzzle) and enthusiastic cheering, the Richmond moored alongside the wharf, the terminus of the river traffic by the ocean steamers.
IN AND ABOUT LISMORE.
As the steamer neared the wharf the situation of the town seemed very attractive; the picturesque having, to a certain extent, been preserved in its natural form where possible. On the south side the dense forest descended to the river, where it was bordered by the light green foliage of the willows. Immediately ahead, the prosperity of the place was exemplified by two fine bridges, one of iron and the other of wood, with a centre cylinder of iron. The river at the bridges divided into two streams, which coursed for many miles through rich cane and farm land. On the northern side, from a setting of willows, the bank rose to a height of about 30ft, covered with a grassy mantle, looking very cool and refreshing under the rays of the sun. Through this rising ground, which is a Government reserve, a road has been cut to the main street leading to the town, several buildings of which were visible. Lismore, although seventy-five miles by river from Ballina is only twenty-two miles by road from that town, and coaches run daily with passengers and mails. The drive is a very pretty one through the Big Scrub and fine cane country. What a delightful change a stroll through the town is to the wearied visitor from the metropolis. The very air is different, and has a fresh, exhilarating effect, which renders fatigue unknown. Then what a bright, clean appearance the whole place has, as if nature had designed and constructed the town under her special supervision. The town is situated on a perfectly level plain, surrounded by partially-wooded mountains, which descend in gentle grassy slopes. Lismore is certainly one of the busiest, and to all appearances one of the most thriving townships on the river. Like the other towns, some thirty years have elapsed since the first settlers made their way from the southern districts to the then almost unknown Richmond. Small tracts at first were cleared for huts and to afford sufficient ground for a meagre subsistence. Such was the beginning. By slow but sure degrees, with the caution peculiar to Scotia’s sons, the surrounding district came under cultivation, and then attention was directed to the town. It was laid out on scientific principles, wide streets allowing every inch of the level land to be availed of. About five years ago the town began to assume some importance, and now buildings were constructed in all directions. The principal thoroughfares are Molesworth, Woodlark, Keen, Magellan, and Conway streets. Molesworth street runs along the river’s bank, and from the wharf is built upon on both sides. This is the George street of Lismore. There are some fine buildings, notable among these being the post and telegraph office, three banks, several hotels, and a number of stores. Woodlark street begins at the bridge and goes on past the reserve, joining with a piece of Neutral road called the Postman’s Track, which connects with the Ballina road. This is a busy street, and a good deal of business is apparently transacted. The public schools, rather attractive looking buildings, are situated at the corner of Keen and Magellan streets. There are two newspapers, the CHRONICLE and the NORTHERN STAR. The several denominations have their places of worship, and there is a fine little place of amusement called the Albert Hall. There are beside a Protestant Hall and a reading room. Litigation is apparently not unknown in the town, as there are three lawyers. On the top of the hill, on the Postman’s road, is a nice little villa, overlooking the valley, with its border of mountain scenery, doing duty for a hospital. There is, however, not much occasion for it. There are two doctors; but as yet trade is not sufficiently brisk to invite the establishment of an undertaker’s business. The splendid forest country round the town is a great source of revenue, and hundreds of hands are employed in this occupation. Many people would imagine that in a town of which so little is known hotel accommodation would be very inferior. This is a mistake, as several of the hotels would do credit even to Sydney, and the attendance is first class. There are also two clean looking boarding houses, which do a good business. Dairy farming has taken a firm hold in the district, and quantities of butter and cheese are shipped to Sydney. This season, however, it is intended to conduct operations on a more extensive scale. The visitor is impressed with the immense resources of the place, and but one conclusion is come to, and that is the grand prospects of the town. Unlike most country towns the shop windows are very attractively decorated with the wares for sale, and when lit up in the evening are quite as much a feature to townspeople “doing the block” as George street is to Sydney folk. There is one institution in connection with the town which might with advantage be adopted elsewhere. On Wednesday afternoons all the places of business are closed, and thus one clear half day of leisure is enjoyed by the employees. Crossing the bridge, takes the visitor on the one hand to the racecourse, and if he has a mind to see the country, he can proceed right on to Brisbane. Over another bridge, almost a continuation of the first, is the road to Casino. Lismore possesses fine recreation and show grounds, situated on one of the best sites in the town.
During the afternoon of our arrival the residents visited the vessel, where several toasts were drunk. The townsfolk were unable to sufficiently press their hospitality on the visitors, and consequently every moment of our stay was engaged in doing full justice to the place. Having arrived rather late to proceed direct to the Big Scrub, as originally intended, we effected a compromise. The trip was put of to the next morning. We then devoted our time driving about the town until 6 o’clock. Then dinner and elaborate preparations for
OUR BALL.
in the Albert Hall. In order to introduce the excursionists to the residents of the district in a manner which would at once place both parties on terms of friendship, Mr. Nicoll decided to give a ball and a banquet, to which a number of the towns people of Lismore and Casino were invited. To form an estimate of the character of people estranged from the busy scenes and the fierce battle of life in large cities, and who consequently live in a new world essentially their own, there is no place, apart from business and domestic relations, where the several traits (good or bad, as the case may be) are shown so clearly as at a pleasant social gathering. Judged by this standard, the Lismoreites would compare rather more than favorably with similar gatherings of what is termed the elite in many large cities. The ladies were neatly dressed in the latest fashions, and there was none of that gaucherie so noticeable at many country balls. If the fair sex left at home were for a time forgotten by the excursionists, then the Lismore belles were to blame they were too attractive. Dancing began shortly after 8 o’clock under the able pilotage of Messrs. Bensnean and Hoyte. At about midnight an adjournment was made to the banquet room when host Paulsen, of the Commercial Hotel, had a choice selection of good things, which were certainly not neglected. After ” The Queen,” the Mayor of Lis-more (Mr. Barry) proposed “Success to Mr. Nicoll.” In the course of his remarks he referred to the enterprise of Mr. Nicoll in placing such a fine vessel as the Richmond in the river trade, and in conclusion he coupled the name of Mrs. Nicoll with the toast. Mr. Nicoll responded. Mr. Allingham proposed “The Visitors to the District.” Messrs. W. Neill, J. S. Jameson, and John Pope replied. Mr. W. Niell proposed “The Commercial interests and Prosperity of the Richmond district.” Dr. Bernstein responded. The toast of “The Mayor” (Mr. Barry) ; “The Magistrate of the District” (Mr. Bray 😉 “The EVENING NEWS and TOWN AND COUNTRY JOURNAL,” and others having been honored, a return was made to the ballroom, where dancing was continued until next morning,
In my next contribution I propose to describe a trip through the Big Scrub, and to say something about the Marshall or Austinville Waterfalls.
Courtesy of Trove Part Four 17 October 1885
THE BIG SCRUB.
The Postman’s Track, so called as a memento of the early days of the settlement, when there were no roads, and the mail was conveyed on horseback through the tracks originally formed by the blacks through the dense forest land, was ascended. When we reached the top of this track a very pretty view was seen of the town, in the green flat beneath, and surrounded on all sides by ranges of mountains, those away in the distance presenting a dark zone girt with magnificent forests of valu-able trees. Going up the track the bush spread right down to the road, rising to the tops of the mountains on one side and on the other stretching into the valley, through which were seen the opposite ranges, with intermediary clearings laid down in grass, and we were on the Ballina road. The history of the town and district is intimately connected with this road. Thirty years ago the only tracks through the dense forest were those used by the blacks and the cedar cutters, but these did not come near Lismore A commencement was made by the towns people, encouraged and directed by an old resident named Mr. Bailey, in cutting a track to the top of the range, where a junction was affected with the primitive roads mentioned. This served for many years as a bridle track, by which the mails were convoyed to and from Ballina. The urgent necessity for means to get the produce to market, as the land was settled, resulted in the tracks being widened ; and as time passed on, and the place increased in importance, the Government contributed its quota toward the work. By degrees the road, which was originally over thirty miles from Lismore to Ballina, was reduced in length about ten miles, and a route selected to a certain extent safe to life and limb. The soil is a rich loam, and is capable of growing any semi tropical products. Leaving the Big Scrub and its attractive scenery, the cavalcade passed into the open country, with its deep chocolate soil. Thriving cane fields extended on each side, with attendant mill and residences (the Melbourne Co.’s mill) and a place of worship, and Austinville came into view. At the top of the hill a magnificent sight was presented. A few miles away was the ocean, with its white line of breakers beating on the sandy fringe along the coast and the entrance to the river. Coming inland to where we were, the effect was enhanced by flat grassed land ascending to a hill on one side, and densely timbered country on the other. The view to be obtained from this point is almost a counterpart of the first glimpse of the ocean from the top of the hill at Randwick the old tram terminus.
The excursionists disembarked at the Ocean View Hotel, where host and hostess Callaghan received them. This hotel is prettily situated, and when the district is more frequented by visitors it will be a favorite resort. The building is commodious, and a verandah extends round the house, from which a fine view is obtained of the ocean and the surrounding country. Facing the house is the forest in its natural state. A nice little flower garden adds to the general attractiveness, which is enhanced by farmyard surroundings.
The visit thus far was due to the residents of Lismore, who wished to do honor to the excursionists, and it was intended in a short trip to show them a portion of the principal scenery and give an idea of the capabilities of this portion of the Richmond. Their hospitality farther took the shape of a banquet, which was excellently prepared by the host of the hotel, and was served in a cool marquee under the lee of the building. After about half an hour’s real enjoyment, “The Queen” was honored in loyal style, and then Dr. Bernstein proposed “The Visitors.” In the course of his remarks he referred to their indebtedness to Mr. Nicoll for having placed such a fine steamer as the Richmond in the river trade. He spoke of the first steamer employed on the Richmond by Mr. Nicoll (the Bonnie Dundee), in 1875, and the great advancement which had since taken place, owing to the facility with which the produce of residents could be got to market. Messrs. B. B. Nicoll, T. F. Thompson, and J. Pope, responded. Mr. Pope proposed “The Chairman (Mr. Barry, Mayor of Lismore) and the Vice-Chairman (Mr. Larkin).” Those gentlemen having replied, Mr. Stocks proposed “The Press,” coupling with the toast the health of one of their guests, Mr. Frank Bennett, and “Success to the TOWN AND COUNTRY JOURNAL and the EVENING NEWS.” Mr. Bennett, in responding, said that the journals with which he was connected had always paid close attention to the interests of the Richmond district, and with the increased knowledge gained by his visit he promised that the wants and requirements of the residents would be even more studied in future. (Cheers.)
THE AUSTINVILLE FALLS.
Immediately facing the hotel a narrow track had been cut through the bush, and on entering this the visitor passed under a leafy awning, through which glimpses were occasionally seen of the blue sky and the sun making its way through the foliage away overhead, and lighting up the dark archway. The tall pines and gums on each side were interspersed with fig and other trees, a network of vine embracing the whole. The falls are about 70ft in height, and round the circle the bright green foliage of fig trees and shrubs and the graceful tree fern, contrasted well with the dark rocky face of the cliff on one side and the brown patches of boulders, rising from a bed of ferns and scrub, on the other. Around the pool was a soft grassy bank, forming a luxurious lounge from which to admire the scene. The silence, the solitude of the forest, was here experienced in its truest sense, and reminded one of those lines, occasioned by a similar excursion,
And nought the solitude disturbs,
Save the wood’s low chant, the humming of the birds.
Overhead, springing from tree to tree, and occasionally taking their flight through the valley below, were the bright plumaged king parrots, rosellas, and blue mountaineers, also satin birds, riflemen, graceful lyrebirds, the miniature tomtit, and the wild turkey, not forgetting the “more pork,” the latter reminding the invader of this wooded retreat that he had to be back to a hungry world.
Continuing on a branch track, through similar scenery, we got to the canefields, and thence on the Wardell road, where the Richmond River Company’s sugar mill is situated, and around which the settlement of Rous has sprung up. A large number of hands were employed by the mill during the season, and this year’s results promise to be very satisfactory. The establishment is surrounded by eleven hundred acres of land, the property of the company, which is mostly planted with cane. The farmers, however, supply the greatest portion of the cane. The appliances are most perfect, and the system of keeping the books places the Sydney office in possession of the minutest details in connection with the works, from the carters’ wages to the result of the week’s crushing, and also the analysis obtained from each kind of cane.
The return to Lismore in the cool of the evening was very pleasant, and, as all were tired, an early adjournment was made to bunk.
CASINO.
At about 10 o’clock on the following morning the excursionists were photo’d singly and in a group in Reade’s studio, and “embark” was the next order. The vehicles were punted across the river (the bridge is not quite completed), and a brisk two hours’ drive through open pastoral country brought Casino in sight. Here the effects of the drought were sadly apparent. A stream which was never known to be dry had failed, and stock had a starved, miserable appearance. A number of poor beasts were bogged; while the white bones glistening in the sun along the course of the bog showed what would soon be their fate. The magistrate of the district, Mr. Bray, met the party, and invited them to a banquet in Tattersall’s Hotel, where a pleasant hour was spent.
CORAKI.—MORE HOSPITALITY.
Reaching Coraki at about 11 o’clock at night we received a warm welcome from Mr. Yabsley and the principal residents. In response to their invitation a raid was made on the principal hotel, where the hospitality was accorded that justice which was merited by the spirit in which it was offered. After “The Queen,” Mr. Yabsley, one of the oldest residents in the district, proposed “The Health of Mr. Nicoll.” Mr. Watts proposed “Our Visitors,” and Messrs. Neill, Jennings, and Jamieson responded. The other toasts were “Prosperity to the Richmond River and District,” by Mr. Neill, responded to by Mr. Kyren Nolan; “The Ladies,” and “The Press.” With the last named toast was coupled the name of Mr. Frank Bennett, and “Success to the papers with which he is connected.” Mr. Bennett responded. In the course of a brief speech he said that his trip to the Richmond River had not only afforded him the greatest pleasure, but it had enabled him to acquire a knowledge of the capabilities of the district, and he assured them that the newspapers he was connected with would ever study to promote the interests of the residents of such a grand and magnificent district.
Woodburn was reached at about 2 o’clock on Saturday morning, and here the steamer was joined again. During the afternoon she arrived at Ballina, where she remained for the night. By invitation the excursionists visited Hart’s “Happy Hours” entertainment, and an exceedingly pleasant time was spent. Early on Sunday morning the Richmond proceeded to the bar, where she anchored, waiting for the afternoon’s tide. In the meantime parties went ashore in the ship’s boats. Some proceeded over the hills to church; others went oystering, and a minority roamed about seeking for pretty views.
HOMEWARD.
All were on board again at luncheon time, and at about 4 o’clock the steamer crossed out in tow of the tug Protector. A fair wind, with dull threatening weather, followed the vessel to the Cahors, where she lay to waiting for a boat to take off Captain Alley, who had skillfully piloted the Richmond through the intricate navigation of the river. In charge of the boat was Captain Amora, who boarded the vessel. Shortly afterward the two captains left for their respective vessels, the Cahors and Albatross, amid the ringing cheers of the crew and passengers of the Richmond. Pleasant weather and smooth water favored the excursionists, during the remainder of the trip, and at 2 a.m. on Tuesday, September 22, she berthed at Nicholl’s Wharf, where, after a parting glass, the party proceeded to their homes with renewed health and pleasant memories of their glorious trip to the Richmond.
CONCLUSION—REQUIREMENTS.
Having taken my readers on an excursion from Sydney to Lismore and Casino, and back to the metropolis, I will now briefly give an outline of the first settlement of the Richmond district, its present wants and its grand capabilities. It would scarcely be credited that forty years ago the Richmond River was known only in name. The Clarence River had long been the great source of the colony’s supply of cedar. This timber having got scarce the cutters did a little “prospecting,” and in the course of their explorations struck the head of the Richmond and traced it to the entrance. Finding immense quantities of fine cedar in the vicinity, they started back to the Clarence and made arrangements with the captain of a coasting vessel to work round to the head of the river, where the cedar cutters would meet him and pilot him in. After a week’s passage the vessel readied her destination. Settlement speedily followed. About sixty-three of the residents from the Shoalhaven and southern districts, mostly hardy Scots, migrated to the Richmond, and their example was speedily followed by others, with the grand result of converting a comparatively unknown and densely timbered country into thriving settlements and promising towns, supported by the timber, pastoral, and sugar industries. The labor and expenditure entailed before success was ever thought of can be imagined by the cost of clearing the land even now—£10 to £15 per acre. The first national school in Lismore was started 25 years ago with fifteen pupils. Now the attendance is over 300. Regarding the capabilities of the district; literally these are inexhaustible. Yet the general, complaint is “want of water,” and “we never had such a dry season.” Regarding the improvement of the river, the residents might help themselves a little, but, to any the least of it, there has been great neglect shown toward the district in this respect Works supposed to effect an improvement have been carried on spasmodically by an apology for dredge. But what is the modus operandi? Why the river is deepened at one place and the dredging thrown into another a short distance away, the result being that the scouring of the river settles on the new foundation, and ultimately the river is all but blocked by a formidable sandbank. Such is the case near Wardell where steamers cannot now cross except on the top of high water. Often a favorable tide is missed at the bar, and the consequence is an enforced detention of a week or so. There are several places like this on the river, and the bar in no exception. There has never been anything done to the entrance to bring the course of nature, erratic in this case, into harmony with the skill of the engineer. Certainly the bar shifts, and has shifted many times during recent years—at present there are the mementos of four different entrances. Three of these have rather sad relics to keep them in remembrance. The North Head, where the lighthouse is situated, can apparently lay prior claim to having had the possession of the keystone to the Richmond. Then the southern head held the honor for a brief period. By heavy storms, and the scourings from the river, an inroad was made in the centre of the sandy patch, forming a breakwater to the ocean, and blocking the approach to the river. This again shifted a few chains, and left but a narrow channel through the sandy flat, extending from the northern to the southern point. Every day indicates a fresh change; but where next? is the question. In the meantime the present entrance becomes more difficult each week. Various remedies have been suggested, and among these I gathered that the diversion of North Creek into Fisheries Creek would take the scourings of the former branch from the channel into a course where its action could be easily neutralised. This is doubtful. The changes appear to be due to the ebb tide carrying the surface sand from the flats, in its inward course, into the channel, and the ebb tide evidently did not possess sufficient force to displace this and carry it to sea. To avoid this, and bring the aids of ebb and flow to practical account in keeping clear a channel does not seem such a wonderful feat. An eminent engineer, famous for water supply schemes and harbor works, proposed an elaborate plan for deepening and widening the river, improving the bar, &c, but the residents would have none of him at any price. However, one of the first engineers of the present day (Sir J. Coode) is about to pay a visit up north, and no doubt the river will be faithfully and favorably reported on. The Government being thereby moved into action, and the principal drawback having been removed, there should be a bright and prosperous future before the Richmond River and district.