Courtesy of Trove Australian Town and Country Journal 10 August 1878
An occasional correspondent has kindly furnished us with the following notes of a trip in the steamer Platypus, Captain Robert Gowans, from Newcastle to the Richmond River and back to Sydney :—
We left the wharf, Newcastle, at mid-day on the 18th July, quietly steaming out across the Bar, outside of which met the Bungaree, the tug which towed the Platypus in on the night of the 12th, the day she met with the accident to her machinery, and the captain out of compliment to her dipped colours. At 4 p.m. passed Port Stephens, the principal harbour of refuge of New South Wales, and destined if coal is found (and of which there is not the slightest doubt) to be the second port of the colony. A fine night and morning. Passed Smoky Cape about 8 a.m., to me an object of interest, as the land sighted by Captain Cook, so named from the smoke seen arising from the fires of the natives. It was on the south head of the Cape; both that and the north show signs of vegetation, the pamdanues or native bread-fruit trees growing in considerable quantities. A short distance, and we arrive at Trial Bay, at the head of which they are building a barracks or prison, to be used by the convicts when constructing the breakwater. This will be a valuable acquisition to all masters of vessels navigating the coast, as a shelter from the easterly gales. During the day passed the Solitary Islands (five in number), besides other small islands; passed Clarence Peak during the night, and early on the morning of the 20th, we arrived off the mouth of the Clarence River, crossing the bar at 7 a.m. Here we noticed numerous wreckage, also the brigantine, F.W. Tucker, which drifted aground on the North Spit, about three weeks since, and will, in all probability, become a total wreck. It needed all the skill of our captain to keep our vessel clear of the numerous sand spits before arriving at the wharf at Iluka. Here we take on board two families migrating from the Clarence to the Richmond River, also their live and dead stock, ploughs, carts, &c,. Both were intelligent men, with wives and families, and stated their reason for moving was solely to better themselves, as they considered the latter the coming river. We re-cross the bar at half-past nine, passing Evans’s Head and reef, the latter considered one of the most dangerous on the coast, arriving off the Richmond Bar about half-past 1 p.m. Captain now signals to pilot for depth of water. A little delay, and he was on board the s.s. Bonnie Dundee, which run aground on the 17th instant, and near her was the tug steamer Francis Hixson, which also got aground next day on a shifting sand-bank, when trying to tow off the former vessel. Also saw here the wreck of the steamer Waimea, the hull of which is now high and dry at the North Head, and which, when she was lost, was close to the channel of the river. This point is a favourite resort of the pelicans, numbers of which we saw when passing. The pilot having taken up his position in his boat in mid-channel, signalled by flags to the captain his course, and slowly steaming we approached this difficult bar, our soundings anything but satisfactory, now 10ft now 9, and at last only 8, a slight touch, then another, now we hear welcome 8ft 6in, 9ft, then 10ft, and we are over; our captain’s skill and patience is rewarded, and all on board are satisfied that we had escaped the fate of the two vessels now lying within 100 yards of us. Pilot Easton, a jolly old tar of sixty-three summers, comes on board, his coxswain takes the helm, and in twenty minutes more we are safely moored alongside the wharf at Ballina, a thriving township, containing at the present time about 400 inhabitants. The chief support arises from the shipping, which, as a rule, anchor off the town when going or returning from the river. Cargo discharged, we resume our journey, passing the island of Pimlico – so named by a native of that parish in Westminster, who subsequently lived on the banks of the river. Shades of evening now closed around us. At 8 p.m. arrived alongside the wharf at Wardell, or Blackwall, as it was formerly called. There are two sawmills here – one on either side of the river, belonging respectively to Messrs. Carter and James; and, from what I hear at the present time, are driving a flourishing trade. Our captain being desirous of reaching Woodburn before midnight, he gives orders to discharge cargo as smart as possible, and is promptly obeyed by officers and crew. Bell rings, and we are again off. Midway, however, the captain kindly stops and lands one of the families, stock in trade, &c., of Mr. Anderson. This person has bought a farm here, and he is confident in a few years to be independent of working himself; we all wish him success. The river now is somewhat difficult in navigating, but by skilful steering we arrive alongside the wharf belonging to Messrs. Woodford and Co., who own the sugar mills here, the first erected on the river, and as we have now arrived at the township where at present the largest acreage is grown, and the largest tonnage crushed, a few remarks on the growth of sugarcane, and the manufacture of sugar, may be interesting to your numerous readers, in obtaining which, I may add, I was ably assisted by Mr. Pullman, the practical and courteous manager of Messrs. Woodford and Co.’s mill, and although not so elaborate as I could have wished, yet in detail it will be found correct. Any omissions will be supplied in a future article.
SUGAR INDUSTRY AT WOODBURN, RICHMOND RIVER, N.S.W.
The cane in this district is planted by the farmers in September or October, the earlier the better. They cut as a rule four joints of the mother cane for planting, and if the weather is favourable, and the ground moist, it will strike root in about seven or ten days. It is placed in the ground diamond fashion, so that the plough used for cutting the weeds can be used both ways. It is also handier for hoeing when the plant is young and somewhat tender. The cane cutting and crushing commences in July this year. At Woodford’s and Co. it commenced on the 22nd. The hands employed by this firm in cutting and conveying cane to the mill are paid 3s 6d to 4s per ton, and can earn on an average 7s per day. The mill hands are paid from 35s to 55s per week, according to the degree of responsibility devolving upon them. Messrs. W. and Co. employ nearly thirty men, that is including field hands. This mill, which is one of the largest on the river, was erected about five years since, and during the time it has been in operation they have manufactured nearly 300 tons of sugar, which has realised the highest market prices in Sydney. The high rate of wages and, at present, high cost of fuel, preclude (so the manager says) large profits, but one thing, however, is certain, that both the farmers and mill owners have discarded the grumbling coat, and look on the luxuriant crops of cane growing around them with the air and mien of satisfied men. To prove the suitability of climate and soil for this branch of industry, several instances have occurred in which from three to four tons of sugar have been obtained from one acre of ground. The general average, however, is about two tons per acre. The cane grown here is principally ribbon, purple, and yellow Fiji. It is either purchased as it stands on the ground at 10s per ton, or is cut and conveyed to the mill by the farmer, who receives in return one-half of the net profit. The average density of cane-juice for four seasons has been 9 degrees, with 130 gallons per ton of cane. Samples of the several species of cane grown in this district were kindly sent me by Messrs. Norman and Cravigan (since forwarded to the editor Town and Country), and, it must be admitted, from exterior appearances, reflect credit on them as growers. They are nearly ten feet in height, and certainly, if our information is correct (of which we have not the slightest doubt), will yield – the ribbon, eighteen months old, forty to fifty tons; and the purple and Fiji, nine months growth, twenty-five to thirty-five tons per acre – a very profitable employment both of labour and capital. However, from observation and inquiry made, the area of land under cultivation on the river bank, both for maize and sugar cane, is marvellously limited, considering its natural advantages, scarcely ever exceeding 20 chains in depth; but industry, assisted by science, is only required to make this and adjoining townships the most flourishing of the country, and before I resume my journey, I would strongly advise capitalists and others who desire safe and profitable investment, to visit the Richmond River (the Mississippi of New South Wales), and judge for themselves of its capabilities and requirements.
We spend a quiet Sunday at Mid Woodburn, moored alongside Mr. Golland’s wharf. The morning is beautifully fine, though somewhat chilly. We take a pleasant stroll in the neighbourhood, and note that, to the credit of the colony, the school-house is here what the parson’s house is in the old country, the most prominent in the village. We have an agreeable chat with Mr. Golland, J.P., the largest landowner here, and at present has no desire to sell any; have a look in at the new Court-house, and other objects of interest; and retire early on board to bed, as we are to resume our journey at six o’clock on the Monday morning. The captain being punctual at his post, we pass severally the mills of Messrs. Meston and Miller, and M’Larens, with a promise to visit them at some future time. A little higher up the river land another new settler (Mr. Buchanan), who had purchased an eligible site on the river bank, built an excellent wharf, and is now building a substantial residence. This party recently purchased in Sydney a small steamer to be used in trading up and down the river. I may add, with all good fellowship, that he is a canny Scot, not a bad sign to me as an Englishman, as to the future prospects of the river. We now pass the elbow and note that the sugar mill, belonging to Mr. Thomas Robinson, is under-going a thorough repair; new machinery is expected from Sydney by the next boat, and if all is well the mill will be in full swing the second week in August. The river here abounds with duck, shag, and water fowl, and the passengers amuse themselves with shooting at them and as we say in the old country in making the feathers fly, but carrying away the flesh.
CASINO.
At 10 a.m. reach Yeagar’s wharf, the landing stage of goods for Casino, and while the steamer is discharging cargo we cross the river and walk through Honeysuckle wood to the junction of the river at Curaki. As we stroll on the bank we pass the trunk of one of what was the largest fig trees in the colony, which was cut down (unnecessarily so we think) by order of the surveyor. Some idea may be formed of the extent of its foliage, when we state that it covered nearly one acre of ground, but this act of vandalism has been accomplished, and the axe has done its work. We notice at the boatman’s cottage near to the punt, a broken tomb-stone erected to the memory of Amelia Wilson, who died on the 22nd of January, 1852, aged 22 years; also John Wilson, husband of the above, who died December 22,1853. Both were buried on the river’s bank; the former, it is said, died in childbirth, and the latter of sorrow at the death of his wife, or, pathetically speaking, of a broken heart.
CURAKI.
Curaki, I look upon as a township that will occupy a prominent position in the future, second to none on the river. It is admirably situated as the termini for the larger steamers, and if the Government could only be induced to build wharves and suitable warehouses, would rise rapidly both in population and wealth. The south arm, on which is Mr. Yabsley’s ship building yard, the largest in the colony, leads to Casino, and the north to Lismore where, after discharging our cargo at Curaki for Parker Brothers, and others, we quietly steam on our way, the scenery becoming more attractive and beautiful. We arrived at Wyrrallah, where a large business in the timber trade is carried on by Mr. John Keep of Sydney. The saw-mills are the most extensive on the river, and the works generally (to the credit of the manager, Mr. Breckinridge) one of the best conducted. Although only a small township, it has its School of Arts, the private property of the proprietor of the mills, and speaks well of the liberality of that gentleman, to provide for his workmen’s amusement and instruction. We continue our journey – still plenty of amusement in shooting – and arrive at the wharf belonging to the Richmond Store, at Gunderimba. Here we interview the proprietor, Mr. John Harrison, the hero of the Walter Hood, now almost forgotten. No gold medals, &c, adorn his breast; yet he has the proud satisfaction of feeling in his own breast that when he jumped into the surging waves and swam to that ill-fated vessel, and was the means of saving not only the captain’s wife but other lives (the exact number I do not know), he had simply done his duty as an Englishman. The steamer’s whistle hastens me on board, and I shake hands with Mr. Harrison with as much pride for his act of bravery of the past as others were doing at the same time in Sydney with Mr. Mid-shipman Pearce for his act of bravery of the present. We are now nearing Lismore, the beautiful river scenery reminding me very much of the sylvan Wye, at Home, between Ross and Goodrich, and I can pay no greater compliment to the Richmond than comparing it for beauty at this spot with that far-famed scenic river. The gun fires to announce our arrival, and we notice that the natives have congregated on the river’s bank to welcome Captain Gowan, who is a great favourite here, and his vessel; for he is not only nine days overdue, but it is known there are several important personages (in these parts) on board, amongst them a P.M., a newspaper correspondent, and a bank manager, the latter especially. We had the pleasure of making this gentleman’s acquaintance on board; he is connected with the Bank of New South Wales, and we wish him every success in his new home.
LISMORE.
Arriving alongside the wharf there is the usual shaking of hands, and when the crowd has cleared away, I quietly walk on shore, and put myself in order to survey the streets and neighbourhood of Lismore, the largest town on the banks of the Richmond. As may be imagined, it is in its infancy; it is well laid out; it is in the centre of what will become the largest agricultural district of the colony, and I predict for it a great future. Here you have any quantity of land of undeniable quality suitable both for pasture and arable purposes; all it requires is clearing, and nature will do the rest. This district ought to be specially attractive to small capitalists and farmers. I mix with the inhabitants, who are both jolly and hospitable, and whose frank and open expression of countenance remind you of the mother country, the land that gave them or their fathers birth.
I trust ere long to renew their agreeable acquaintance. We stroll towards the steamer, and find all hands, under the superintendence of the chief officer (Mr. Jackson), busily engaged in loading timber. We take on board 35,000 superficial feet of pine, but must stop there in consequence of the quantity of maize awaiting us down the river. Two o’clock is the time announced for our departure, at which time our captain is at his post, when, after the customary leave-taking of friends, who come down in numbers to see us off, the bell rings, the whistle blows, and we start on our return journey to the metropolis of the colony. We stop and pick up maize at most of the small wharves and moor for the night at Mr. Keep’s wharf at Wyrrallah. The 24th, a fine and beautiful morning, and again we resume our journey, maize being the only cargo we take in till we arrive at Meston and Miller’s wharf; here are a number of casks of molasses to take on board for the Sydney and Melbourne market. On inquiry I find for this article they are now obtaining what they call good prices, viz., 30s per cask, each containing about seven or eight cwt, the purchaser finding casks. This is a great improvement on the first two years of sugar manufacture on this river, when it was actually thrown away. Of Meston and Miller’s mill I shall have more to say in my next; suffice it to say it contains all the modern improvements necessary in the manufacture of sugar. The cylinders are of the same size as Woodford and Co.’s, although we notice they are plain instead of grooved. They commenced crushing this day (the 24th), and anticipate a prosperous season. At 6 p.m. we arrive once more at Woodford’s wharf, where forty more casks of molasses await us. Our captain, however, is only able to take twenty this trip. Evening comes on apace, and as we cannot cross the bar till tomorrow afternoon, he very sensibly gives orders to moor here for the night. The 25th, another fine morning; nothing of importance occurs, the river, such portions that I could not see for darkness on my journey up, only confirming my previously-acquired views of its natural capabilities for trade and commerce.
BALLINA.
We arrive at Ballina at 3 p.m., but have to wait for sufficient water to carry us over the bar, and as the tug boat which got off her sand bed on the 23rd, is about to tow out one of the timber vessels. I accept the skipper’s (Captain Fenwick) offer to look over her, and take an extra trip across the bar. This steamer, an unusually strong one, was built at South Shields. Her engines, 80 horse power, are by Reynoldson, of the same town. Her cabins are well-fitted, and when not required for towing purposes, she would make an admirable excursion boat. We got our vessel (the Lizzie Davis) safely over the bar. No thanks, however, to her captain, who was steering. We ring the bell to cast off the tow-rope and return to Ballina to do the same kind office for us, before we resume our journey. It will not be out of place to note the complaint of captains using this river as to the rates charged by the owners or the Francis Hixson. What they state is this, that as they are subsided by the Government, viz., £1800 per annum, the towing rates should not be so high as ordinary ones. To me, as a commercial man, this appears quite feasible, but having made a note of it, I must leave it to those more interested in the river to remedy the evil. The tow rope is now hauled up the side of the Platypus.
TO SYDNEY.
The steamer takes us in tow, and after twenty minutes steaming we are safely across the bar, and at 5 o’clock cast off and wave adieu to numerous friends who are on board the tug, and steam away for Sydney. Weather continues fine till 9 p.m., on the 26th, when a stiff breeze springs up, and it is not till somewhat late in the morning we sight Sydney Heads, and at half-past 11 we are safely moored alongside the Clarence and Richmond steamers’ wharf. In wishing the captain good bye, we have much pleasure in complimenting him on his seamanship, also on his care and attention to his passengers, especially the ladies, placed under his charge. Of the table provided by the company we cannot speak too highly, and also of the attention of the officers. The trip, in fact, altogether has been a most enjoyable one, and we have much pleasure in recommending tourists, invalids, &c., to avail themselves of the same; they will find every comfort on board the steamer, and moderate charges at the hotels on the river. Any further information as to fares, rates, &c., can be obtained at the office of the company.