A Trip to the Richmond River.
Courtesy of Trove Scrutineer and Berrima District Press 7 October 1896
It is an old saying that everything comes to those who wait for it; so with a long promised … to the above named river, in company with a number of ladies and gentlemen to the number of six or seven, I started to see the land so much has been written about. My journey was uneventful in most respects, except, indeed what some people may call of minor importance. Not being a very good sailor I had to experience the unpleasant sensation of the inevitable sea-sickness. However, I disappointed the fish more than I anticipated, to my great joy. Leaving Sydney at 9 a.m. we reached Newcastle at about 7 a.m. next morning the sight of which was to most of us a great surprise. We had read and heard of the effects of strikes, but now we were eye witnesses of the terrible reality of a huge forest of masts with furled sails in the distance; and as we approached nearer we were informed by our captain that 100 ships were lying at anchor, awaiting the termination of a ruinous strike. Having waited a few hours and enjoyed the luxuries of the saloon table at breakfast, as well as some sight seeing, we again set sail for the haven whither we were aspiring to. The weather wet and bitterly cold.
We reached the Ballina Heads about 3 p.m. next day, and found to our dismay that the stand-off signals were up against us. Our good Captain nothing daunted, however, steamed up, took a hurried glance at the situation, turned round and steamed right in through the surging breakers to the quiet haven of rest, and anchored at the Ballina Harbour on Sunday afternoon at 4 p.m. It was raining, and Ballina, not being a very brilliant place at best, looked to us, who were perfect strangers, more dismal than I have time to describe; sufficient to say that we put up at the Town Hall Coffee Palace, where our good host and hostess (Mr. and Mrs. Stone) showed us every kindness and hospitality. In the morning a kind friend was in all the way from the Big Scrub with his horse and buggy at 8.30 a.m., and we were all soon on our way to see the Canaan of Australia. This was a gala day in and around Ballina. A canal having been cut to shorten the route by which cane could be taken to the mills, a large number assembled to witness the ceremony of opening it, and to enjoy the day’s outing, finishing up, of course, with the inevitable ball which I did not attend. Reaching our destination we were tired, and much appreciated the kind hospitality of our new host and hostess. Dinner over, we were soon out and around to spy out the land, not that we ever had any expectations of having to make our escape by the hands of the Harlot Rahab; but to spy out the land we had come, and that we intended to do. Night came, however, and found us weary and tired and torn — the fact was, if we had not been amongst the Rahabe, we had been amongst LAWYERS.
Next day was spent, in the first place, in dissecting fowls, and in the second in visiting some of the neighbours’ farms. Amongst others was that of Mr. R. Johnston, one of the earlier south coast settlers, who for a number of years, of late, has resided at Newrybar, the Richmond River. His farm reminded us of some land on the south coast some 35 years ago — rich and fertile. Mr. A. Alcorn’s, J.P., was next visited. We found that he had just completed a splendid new house which could stand side by side with anything to be seen on the south coast. Dairy herds were also inspected, and, to our surprise, we found that the pure bred Jersey was being introduced into some of the dairy farms. Whether this is a step in the right direction remains to be seen. It will be sufficient here to say that all the cattle we inspected were of a stronger and larger size generally than our cattle on the coast, which is a point in their favour. Cattle suitable for dairy purposes are scarce and high prices can readily be obtained for them. This is easily accounted for from the fact that so much bush is every year fallen and ultimately sown in grasses suitable for dairy pastorage, consequently an unlimited supply of good young stock is necessary.
Our third day’s visit was the residence of Mr. R. Graham, another old south coast resident, and after enjoying the luxuries of a good Richmond River table, we were shown his splendid farm of 700 or 800 acres of the richest and best quality of land. Here, in conjunction with our worthy host, we walked down to the railway station (Binnaburra) some half a mile distant and took the train for Byron Bay to inspect the new creamery. Our time here was scanty on account of some misunderstanding between the train authorities and ourselves. That they didn’t explain our visit nevertheless, convinced us that the creameries at Byron Bay and Lismore, have placed this somewhat remote district on an equal footing with any other in the colony, so far as dairying is concerned. The creamery reflects the greatest credit upon those concerned in it. Those who have inspected the Berry creamery will have a good idea what Byron Bay is like. After returning to the station from whence we started, I parted with my previous company. I taking the high but somewhat rough way, whilst they went their way rejoicing.
After resting for the night, I started out next morning mounted on a spirited hackney for Cooper’s Creek, a distance, I was told, of 16 miles — it seemed more like 26 miles — to visit Mr. James Tate and inspect his new farm. I was cautioned to be careful in mounting my steed, for he was in the habit of bumping, and so he did; but Illawarra boys are not so easily bumped off, and I am not quite sure whether the steed or myself were the most fatigued when we arrived home; but I was bad enough. I certainly must congratulate Mr. Tate on his choice of a farm. Three times the money paid for it would not probably have bought the same class of a farm on the south coast. On my way to and from this farm, I had my attention drawn to many splendid properties occupied by south downers, as they are called up north. As I passed by the property of Mr. W H. Gray, late of Saddleback, I could not help noticing the marked contrast between his present holding and that of his late residence — the one mountainous and the other a plain, but of the best soil. Mr. W. Walmsley, J.P., and C. Hetherington’s farms may truly be said to be beautiful for situation and rich in quality.
My next visit was to Alstonville, I had not to ride that bumping horse — I had the pleasure of a splendid buggy and pair placed at my disposal, and didn’t I enjoy the trip. This is the Olivet of the Richmond River. Passing through the large fields of cane, now in course of cutting, anon you come to rich plots of bananas and various other kinds of fruit trees, all looking in the most healthy condition. The frosts have not been so destructive in this neighbourhood by half as in other parts. The farms of Messrs. Daley I had the pleasure of visiting on this occasion and was agreeably surprised to find such nice homes in such a short space of time.
I had heard a good deal of that famous town of Lismore and my ambition, of course, was to see it at the earliest possible moment. My friends were numerous and kind, and “Tommie,” one of the best ponies I ever sat behind, was hitched up next morning, after my visit to Alstonville, to a splendid hooded gig, and the height of my ambition was soon realised, for in two hours and ten minutes we had gone the twenty-two miles. Lismore at all events, is not the city set on a hill, and to a stranger has not a very imposing appearance. This, however, on ascending the eminence towards the hospital is very much improved. The land is not by any means of the richest or best quality, but nevertheless, may graze very well in the summer. Lismore can boast of having some very good buildings as well as many other things of which time and space will not permit me to mention. Returning home I called at the residence of Mr. Andrew Johnston, J.P., an old resident of Kangaloon, and found that he had acquired for himself a fine farm of about 1400 acres, about 500 of that in grass, with an excellent residence erected on it. The same may be said of Mr. Walker, of Clunes, late of Berry, and many others. After a drive of over 50 miles “Tommie” arrived home in fine heart. Long live “Tommie.”
My next day was spent in company with a number of old coast friends, at the residence of Mr. G.A. Graham, Newrybar, who has succeeded in establishing himself in very commodious quarters, having a beautiful outlook towards Byron Bay and Ballina; and as we gathered round the dinner table and discussed a huge turkey 18lbs weight, and many other good things (which speaks well for Newrybar) many reminiscences of the pioneer days of the south coast district were pretty freely talked over. One venerable old lady told in some pathetic terms how some 40 years ago she started from Fountaindale, with her oldest son in her arms, to go the residence of Mr. T. Wilson, Long Brush, and how on her way she got lost in the bush, and much to the amusement of her hearers, she described her bewilderment and the earnest and impressive manner she uttered that little prayer, ‘Lord help me.’ Speaking of Newrybar, it is quite safe to say that the quantity of land is not surpassed by any other part of the Richmond River district for dairying purposes. Probably, however, Cooper’s Creek land may be of a heavier nature. It has much to commend it to the observer from the fact of its comparatively high level elevation, and its close proximity to the railway station and other conveniences.
Saturday afternoon is very often spent in what is called a ‘Paddy Hunt,’ and in conjunction with a large number of others I went and made my debut. I was not quite so successful as others, but still made my mark, and on the second hunt was more successful. It is certainly good sport for the shooters, but the ‘paddies’ and the drivers do not fare so well.
On Sunday I had the pleasure of hearing the Rev. W. Watts (Presbyterian minister) preach in the Brooklet Hall to a good congregation, and from the acquaintance I made with him on my trip from Sydney, and the opinion formed of his preaching, his congregation may congratulate themselves in having him as their minister. The same may be said of Mr. Brown (Wesleyan minister) who preaches once a fortnight at Newrybar in a very neat little church — well filled with an aristocratic congregation —which would do credit to a more pretentious place. I had not the pleasure of meeting the minister of the Anglican Church. I did, however, meet Bishop Doyle (R.C. of Lismore), and found him most kind and sympathetic as we travelled by sea, he being a good sailor and I the opposite.
Each day found me still on the rounds. Brooklet I have mentioned before as being a beautiful place, the seat of one of the best factories on the river. This is managed by Mr. J. W. Noble, eldest son of Mr. W. Noble, late of Mount Brandon. Convenient to this is a public hall and a public school, and the factory serves as a post office. Three miles further on is “Fernleigh,” the residence of Mr. W. Noble, senr., where with a large family gathering, I spent a most enjoyable day, and judging from the appearance of the family table the name is not likely soon to die out. It may be remembered that some few years ago the Government offered a prize for the best and neatest farm in the various districts of the colony. Mr. Noble put his farm in the competition and succeeded in carrying off the prize, which speaks volumes in itself for the farm.
Having received the greatest kindness in my rambles from a most hospitable people, I turned my steps homeward, and again set sail about four o’clock on Wednesday evening from Ballina; but, alas! our sail was of short duration — who the Jonah was it is not easy to tell, but there were various conjectures. We, however soon found ourselves stuck fast on a a sand-bank inside the bar, and there we remained till about the same hour next day, when, with a very great effort, we succeeded in getting back to the place from whence we started, and there remained till Saturday morning when another and more successful attempt was made to reach our destination, which we accomplished on Sunday night at 6.30 p.m., having enjoyed a fairly good trip.
This great new country has much in it to commend itself to our best consideration. One of its great needs is the increase of a thrifty industrious population who are not afraid of a little hard work, but who would be amply paid for it in due time. Its draw-backs are, in common with any other new country, of causes only too numerous. The severe frosts have been a serious hindrance to the cane growers; the bar is a source of great trouble to shipping; the postal arrangements are very unsatisfactory; the large blocks of land taken up on dummy selections by land sharks is a source of great annoyance to the plodding industrious husbandmen, whose labour is often frustrated through the ravages of noxious animals. On many farms already claimed the brush-hook has been too freely used, and not sufficient undergrowth has been allowed to grow as shelter for cattle, but notwithstanding this those who have large families and a little money to spare will do well to visit the Richmond River district.
—Richmond River Times.